Alongside the updated Prospex 1965 Revival Diver’s 3-Day 300m, Seiko are introducing a brand-new model to the Presage range. It’s called the Seiko Presage Classic Series and it has a completely new case, bracelet, dial and concept. They’re still part of the Presage collection so certain aspects of their design are familiar, such as the fact they’re steel dress watches. But what is new is their focus on soft shapes, soft textures and traditional Japanese materials such as silk. There are two versions of the Presage Classic in the debut series, a time and date edition and an open heart edition.
Presage Classic Series Time and Date
Starting with the case, the Presage Classic is all about soft lines and gentle curves. It measures 40.2mm in diameter, which is surprisingly large for a dress watch but that just highlights the sweeping arc of the smooth bezel and round case all the more. It feels quite alien to by typing about the gentleness of a Seiko case when I’m used to talking about the harsh facets of the Presage Sharp Edged or the Grand Seiko Evolution 9.
The whole concept of the softness of the Presage Classic stems from its inspiration, which is traditional Japanese textiles and fabrics. The dial of the time and date model is based on silk fabric, with a domed shape showing the flexibility and flowing nature of the fabric and a textural finish that’s reminiscent of the surface the tightly woven material. In order to accommodate the dome of the dial, the watch’s hour markers and hands are also curved so that they follow its arc.
There are three colours available on this model. Shiro-iro, the colour of unbleached silk, sensaicha, a brown-green popular in the Edo period and araigaki, a washed and bleached persimmon colour. It’s tough to pick out a favourite as each has their attractive qualities but I think on the whole I’m drawn to the salmon-like tones of the araigaki.
Under the silky surface is housed the Seiko 6R55 automatic movement. It’s the same movement as used in the new Prospex 1965 Revival Diver, with the same 72-hour power reserve providing a weekend proof level of power. It’s visible through the exhibition caseback. Although unlike the Diver, the Presage Classic time and date is priced at under £1,000. Specifically it’s £900 presented on a new seven-link steel bracelet.
Presage Classic Series Open Heart
The second watch being debuted with the Presage Classic Series is the open heart version. It has exactly the same case as the time and date model above so rather than reiterate that again, let’s take a closer look at the new bracelet. Each of the links is designed to be very round and have a small profile where it touches the wrist. What that means is that there’s actually better contact between the bracelet and your wrist so that it’s more comfortable to wear.
Moving to the dial, we see that it has two recessed portions. The first at 9 o’clock is an open heart aperture, revealing the watch’s escapement, the beating heart of the watch. Then, at 6 o’clock, is a 24-hour subdial that serves as a day/night indicator. It would be cool if it could be set independently to the main hour hand so that you could display a second time zone but that’s not the case.
In terms of the dial’s finishing, it’s also inspired by silk but this time it’s based on the individual threads rather than the woven fabric. Which translates into a radial pattern akin to sun ray brushing but less regular and matte. There are two colours of dial available for this model, the same shiro-iro as seen in the Presage Classic Series time and date and then sumi-iro, which is a dark grey gradient.
The movement used in the open heart model is the 6R5J, a modified version of the 6R55. The only difference between the movements is the functions, they’re otherwise identical and share a 72-hour power reserve. The extra functions and more involved design of the dial means the Presage Classic open heart is priced at £1,060, £160 more than its time and date sibling.
On the whole I think it’s a solid addition to the Presage collection. Its attitude of relaxed comfort provides a welcome contrast to the taut Sharp Edged and the extravagant Cocktail Time. It also opens the door to a wide range of more subtle dial textures and designs. A Seiko linen dial would be cool as would a seichu pattern one based on a traditional Japanese form of weaving.
Price and Specs:
More details at Seiko Boutique.
