If you’re unfamiliar with Sartory Billard, I recommend checking out our brand introduction from last summer. But the short version of the story is that they’re a French brand who specialise in bespoke and custom watches designed and built in collaboration with their customers. However, they also produce a handful of ‘ready to buy’ watches known as the Editions Collection. They recently expanded this collection with the new SB04-E Ruby Platinum limited edition and the non-limited SB04-E Tantalum Hand-Engraved.
The SB04-E is the replacement for the now discontinued SB04 model. Eventually you’ll be able to customise it as part of the bespoke range, but at time of writing it’s still listed as coming soon in the bespoke section. The new model has a 39.5mm case in stainless steel with a smooth bezel, polished bevels and brushed sides. It’s also nice and svelte with a thickness of 10.3mm while also retaining a solid level of robustness thanks to a 100m water resistance rating.
Where the two models differ are the dials. Starting with the SB04-E Ruby Platinum, it has a central disk of ruby with a delicate crystalline pattern. While we’re used to seeing synthetic rubies used in horology (providing much needed friction protection in movements), it’s not often that you see the natural gemstone used for decorative elements. Its extreme rarity and high value make it impractical to use, plus its notoriously difficult to cut to the 0.5mm thickness most watches use for stone dials.
It makes for a striking and impressive centrepiece to the dial. Around the edge of the ruby heart is the broad hour and minute scales, which here are presented in a dark grey fumé with sunray brushing. The ring is actually platinum plated, hence the name SB04-E Ruby Platinum, adding an extra layer of luxury to the piece and adding a brilliance to the polished elements such as the small, inner lip around the ruby disk.
Moving to the SB04-E Tantalum Hand-Engraved edition, its central disk is made from tantalum delicately engraved with a feather-like finish. The hour and minute ring is also produced in tantalum but this time with sunray brushing for the finish. Tantalum is an interesting material that’s steadily seeing more and more use in the watch industry – it’s very hard, making it suitable for watches, while also having a high lustre, giving it a good aesthetic appeal.
Below the dials of both versions, you’ll find the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement with 68-hour power reserve. LJP’s movements have become the go to for watchmakers looking for third party movements with higher specs and a touch more prestige than anything offered by Sellita or ETA. It operates at a 4Hz frequency and is wound by a tungsten rotor decorated with Geneva stripes.
The SB04-E Ruby Platinum is limited to 150 pieces at a price of €4,700 excl. VAT (approx. £3,970) and the non-limited SB04-E Tantalum Hand-Engraved is €3,500 excl. VAT (approx. £2,960). Those are pretty incredible prices considering the delicate craftsmanship involved and high quality movement. It really highlights the value or rather lack of value, some other mid-range luxury brands offer.
Price and Specs:
More details at Sartory Billard.
