I am increasingly fascinated by the cultural dichotomy of Japan. On one hand you have super traditional crafts and ancient social structures, and on the other hand a hyper modern society embracing technology faster than practically anywhere else in the world. Yet they are equal parts of Japan’s identity, and you can’t separate them despite their seeming opposition. This is the thematic concept behind much of the work by Japanese artist Terumasa Ikeda, the latest artist to collaborate with Belgian watch brand Ressence with the launch of the Type 9 IKE.
Let’s not beat around the bush here, chances are you clicked on this article because of how insane the Type 9 IKE looks. It has a hyper sci-fi appearance like an alien spacecraft with its domed, 39mm diameter x 11mm thickness titanium case and polished DLC finishing, paired with a vibrant, multi-colour display that looks like power cables running through some bizarre warp-engine. It’s captivating.
This bold, colourful style with futuristic motifs is a signature of Ikeda’s artwork. However, in order to make his art and the dial here, he uses one of the most traditional Japanese crafts around, in the form of lacquering. Specifically, it’s a niche technique known as raden, which we actually talked about on Oracle Time recently because it’s the same technique that Awake used on the Sơn Mài Fragments at the end of last year. Raden involves layering mother-of-pearl into the lacquer work, creating a distinctive iridescent-like finish.
One of the primary difficulties that faced Ikeda and Ressence in the creation of a raden dial for the Type 9 is the nature of mother-of-pearl. It’s a very brittle material and tends to have a concave structure because that’s how it forms in shells, rather than the convex curve of the Type 9 dial. In order to make the dials, Ikeda had to soften the material until it was possible to painstakingly bend it into shape by hand.
In order to understand how the display actually works, it’s probably easier to look at the standard Type 9 and then apply that structure back to the layout of the Type 9 IKE. Essentially the entire dial rotates to display the minutes and then there’s a separate orbiting subdial in a fixed orientation that displays the hours, with the Ressence hand logo at 12 o’clock.
The Type 9 is mercifully the most minimalist of Ressence’s models. The IKE’s raden finish makes it hard to read as is, so I can’t imagine what it would be like with the addition of multiple extra subdials and timing scales from the other models. But then, you’re not going to buy the IKE because it’s a practical time piece, so the legibility isn’t the be-all and end-all.
Beneath the dial is the Ressence ROCS 9 calibre. It’s a modified ETA 2892/2 with a custom module that changes the humble hour and minute functions into a space opera of movement. The adjustments and modifications also mean that you shouldn’t think of it in the same terms as your common or garden beater, it’s significantly more impressive.
The Ressence Type 9 IKE is a limited edition of just 8 pieces at a price of CHF 32,000 (approx. £30,650 excl. taxes). I appreciate that this isn’t a watch that everyone will like. It’s bold and maximalist despite its Minimalist type 9 origins. It’s overstimulating and too busy. But for all that, I love it. It feels like the neon lights of Tokyo at their brightest while one street over a temple to the country’s spirits sits serenely. A modern watch built on a foundation of tradition.
Price and Specs:
More details at Ressence.
