Real Watch Collectors: Sumei Shum

Can you remember the exact moment you realised watches were going to be more than just a passing interest?

Yes, in 2005 when I paid, what was to me, a huge amount on a brand that not many (in fact, very few) had heard of, FP Journe. Just because I really loved the look of his watch at that time. It was a platinum-cased watch with a salmon dial, and I was really taken in by the asymmetrical look of the watch dial. It was eye-catching and determinedly different from any other watch I had come across.

Which watch in your collection has the best story behind how you acquired it?

I was very into chronograph watches at one stage. And my grail then was the Lange 1815 Flyback chrono first gen, white dial (ref 401.026). At that time, it was difficult to find one within my budget. I had also started collecting MING watches and Ming Thein was in Singapore one day meeting collectors. I could not make the collectors’ meeting, but could meet him after. I’d like to think that we hit it off the first time we met. We of course talked watches (and watches and watches).

I remember asking him whether he would ever consider making a chronograph watch (as I really liked the aesthetics of his watches). I mentioned that my grail was the 1815 chrono because of the truly beautiful movement aesthetics, like a city. He shared that it was his as well and that he finally managed to get one. I also remember telling Ming that I really liked the Agengraphe movement. And he said, “confidentially, I have something to share with you. We will be doing a chronograph with an Agengraphe movement. Only eight pieces.”

You could not have contained my excitement – a movement I wanted paired with the aesthetics I so connected with. I asked him to show me what he was planning and just from renderings, I ordered the MING chrono. I also told Ming that if he ever wanted to sell his 1815, to give me first right of refusal. He did – one year later. So, I got my 1815 and also the MING Mosaic proto chrono one year (right after COVID reopening). I still have both watches in my collection. Two birds with one stone!

Is there a watch you regret selling or passing on, and why?

Yes, of course. Who doesn’t? It was the RRCC by Rexhep Rexhepi. I was offered the watch by my rep at The Hour Glass back in 2018. At that time, I did not have the funds to buy the watch, as I had other major commitments. Looking back, I guess if I had wanted the watch really badly, I maybe could have found a way to get funds available (all the what-ifs). But putting down a 50% deposit without really knowing when the watch would be available was too much of a stretch at that time.

So regrets, yes, that is one big regret. I’ve moved on though as it’s pointless trying to reverse time. And I think my watch collecting trajectory may not be where it’s at now if I acquired that watch. Not necessarily better or worse. Possibly different but who knows? One door may lead to another different one. Reminds me of Sliding Doors, but hopefully much better outcomes in both scenarios.

If your collection could say something about you as a person, what would it say?

That I cannot be pigeon-holed. That I don’t go with the hype. That I am unfailingly loyal and supportive to those I connect with. That sometimes I get too attached – more than is healthy for me.

Is there one watch you own that other collectors don’t “get,” but you absolutely love?

Yes, my MB&F Dark Bulldog Red. It’s hardly a conventional looking watch and it has domes on both case side and movement side. But I just love it. It’s so far out and you’d think it’s not wearable on a small wrist like mine, but it really does wear pretty well. The lugs articulate so I can pull the straps down to fit my wrist. Love this watch.

I’d say this is one ‘extreme’” of my collection in its unconventionality. Max Busser is such a smart and visionary watchmaker – to think that he could visualise and bring to fruition such a fabulous watch with all the traits of a bulldog – the eyes for the time, the gaping mouth for the power reserve and the bulbous bottom for the jowls.

What do you look for in a watch?

An aesthetically pleasing and eye-catching dial and an equally attractively laid-out movement. The watch has to be compelling enough to hold my attention over a long period of time. I can’t really pinpoint to anything specific, but the watch has to call out to me.

Sometimes, I get attracted at first sight, but after a few days, if I don’t think about it anymore, then I would pass on that watch. The watch I think about and keep thinking about over many days and weeks, ahh – that is the watch I know would likely hold my attention over a long period of time. Also, a watch that makes me smile every time I look at it. Who would ever pass on a watch that makes you smile all the time?

If you had to focus on one brand only, which would it be and why?

That’s a seriously hard question as I connect with many independent brands. But push comes to shove – FP Journe. He’s such a genius watchmaker. Every watch is different yet carries a certain look, which you can tell straight away is from that brand. Across his collection, even though there are similarities, the watches all look pretty different, so owning one, or even five or 10 of his watches would be distinctive enough that you would be hard pressed to let go of any of them. And the second brand – MB&F for its very diverse model of watches.

What would your younger collector-self be shocked to learn about your current collection?

The money that I have spent on watches! That I am so crazy to spend so much to collect so many non-mainstream/independent watches, brands I would not even have imagined being around at that time, and that I would own so many pieces across so many different independent brands. That I would even do a watchmaking course just to learn the mechanics of a watch movement!

If you had to start over tomorrow with no watches, how would you rebuild your collection?

I can’t imagine not having the watches I have now. I love all the watches I currently own and I don’t think I could afford even a quarter of them if I had to start collecting from scratch tomorrow.

And if what you’re asking me is whether I would rebuild my collection any differently from what I have now, I would say no, not really. My collection is where it is now because of all the decisions I made (good and bad) in my many years of buying a whole load of different watches. I did go mainstream a long time ago with Panerais, Omega limited-edition watches, Grand Seiko, before I went totally indie.

What is your ultimate grail watch?

I have a few – the FFC from FP Journe, the Repetition Souverain from FP Journe, the RRCC II from Rexhep Rexhepi and a particular metiers d’art timepiece from Cartier.