Real Watch Collectors: Christian Lawrence

Collecting is more than the physical act of buying a watch or two, or even tens of watches. It’s an act of curation, introspection and self determination, as you decide what watches you like and which you don’t and how you use watches to represent a portion of your personality. Whether it’s a particular style, mechanical interest or story that captivates you, everyone has their own reasons for becoming a collector. We sat down with some prominent collectors from among the Oracle Time community and wider watch industry to learn about their collecting journey. Today’s collector focus: Christian Lawrence.

Can you remember the exact moment you realised watches were going to be more than just the passing interest?

There are two moments, really. To all intents and purposes my first was a Swatch watch, which had a chronograph feature and I remember just being so intrigued by. How could it work? At the time I was into fashion and design and mechanics, so to see these two things colliding was fascinating. And then I started collecting watches as soon as I started getting a little bit of pocket money.

I think the next moment was really when I first started work. And at that point I could actually start to think about saving up and buying something that was a little bit more substantial. Then I knew I was going to be a collector.

Which watch in your collection has the best story about how you acquired it?

Well, that would be acquiring what I thought was an unobtainable grail: the Ulysse Nardin Freak. When I had my first job, my mentor at the time had a Marine and while looking it up online I stumbled upon the Freak. At that moment I saw the greatest thing I’d ever cast my eyes on. Then, unfortunately I saw the price. There was no way I’d ever afford that – until I could.

I remember that day incredibly well. It was a negotiation. I had to go down to Florida. I did a part exchange with another watch to purchase it, but that was without a doubt my favourite moment in my watch collecting.

Is there one you regret selling or passing on and why?

A Submariner Bluesy. You start off collecting Rolex and then after a while your eyes stray elsewhere, perhaps towards independent brands, and all of a sudden, you’re not that interested in Rolex anymore. But now I’m interested in Rolexes again and because of the secondary market, Bluesies are a lot more expensive now than I sold it for.

If your collection could say anything about you as a person, what would it say?

Probably that I’m a bit of a weirdo. I think what I mean by that is I have quite an eclectic collection. It’s really all over the place. I wear 34 millimetre watches. I have some 43 millimetre watches. I’m really the sort of collector that if I see something and I like it, I’m not really bothered about what the current trends are, I’m not really bothered about what other people think about it.

Is there one watch you own that other collectors don’t get that you absolutely love?

Oh gosh, yes, lots. I think one good example of that is an Alain Silberstein. I often see a lot of people say, ‘oh, that’s interesting, but I’d never wear it.’ Perhaps those bright, primary colours look a little bit childish, but I’m a huge fan. It’s distinctive. But I would say that most collectors I know don’t dive down that rabbit hole. I suppose that when you’re spending a lot of money on a really good watch, cartoony Bauhaus is not what people expect.

What do you look for in a watch?

I always like interesting complications and if there’s something odd about it, all the better. I have a Ulysse Nardin perpetual calendar. I love the fact that you can set it forwards and backwards. There aren’t many perpetual calendars that you can do that with. It’s those small but genuine innovations that I’m really drawn to. I also like things that look different, a little (or a lot) bold.

At the moment, I’ve got my eye on the Fiona Kruger models that we’re seeing coming out with some really sort of explosive dial patterns. I think right now is a real golden age for people coming up with new dial ideas. It might be going a bit far, but sometimes that gives really interesting results.

If you had to focus on one brand only, what would it be and why?

That’s an easy one. I collect Ulysse Nardin. What I like about them, particularly since it’s returned to being independent, is that they very much do care about collectors. It really feels as though yes, they’re a big brand, but they treat their fans like they’re a small independent, even when I buy something pre-owned.

There are a lot of brands trying to build that kind of community at the moment, but with Ulysse Nardin it really feels genuine. I also just love their range of watches and their ability to really push boundaries and think outside the box. Mass appeal doesn’t come into it, and that’s one thing that I love about the brand. Of course, it’s a business, but they are also very, very passionate about their watches. They just want to create something great for the watch world.

What would your younger collector self be shocked to learn about your current collection?

That I have two Freaks in it. I’m not sure what my younger self would make of that…

If you had to start over tomorrow with no watches, how would you rebuild your collection?

Right. I would go straight for a steel sports Rolex. I think every collector needs one of those. It’s the watch that’s going to need the least servicing, because Rolexes are built like absolute tanks and you can wear it in nearly every scenario.

I would also get a gold dress watch. I always think that that’s an important addition to a collection, and for me it comes to two, really. First, a Patek Philippe Calatrava. I think it’s an absolute classic and I also love Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. I’m quite a big fan of rectangular watches.

There is another brand that I would throw into the mix though: Vintage Franck Muller. I’m not a huge fan of the modern ones, but when it comes to the Long Islands, the Crazy Hours complication, they’re fantastic watches. I’ve actually started to collect those and wish I’d started earlier.

What is your ultimate grail watch?

Yeah, right now and I have to blame one of my friends for this because he collects F.P. Journe. I’ve been going to a lot of watch events and he’s always there. The F.P. Journe Octa Lune would probably be the top of the list at the moment and I doubt I’m alone there.