Selten Spiral Golden Fall, £2,203
Affordable enamel dials don’t get more so than those of Chinese brand Selten. More than just accessible however, their Grand Feu series can rub shoulders with the Swiss traditionalists, using layers of coloured enamel over engraved silver dials. Their latest version, aptly named ‘Spiral’ uses 700 hand-engraved lines curling from the centre of the dial. That each dial only takes five hours is a testament to the artisan creating them. In the Golden Fall version, the effect is like fine silk. If you find a more evocative enamel dial for this price, buy it.
Price and Specs:
More details at Selten.
Naga Granturismo Chronograph 39 Dakar, €499 (approx. £435)
The racing chronograph is a pretty established template: a round case, three registers and a tachymeter bezel. Snake-inspired Italian microbrand Naga however has managed to make it their own. A curved, almost hexagonal case, an interior techymeter and a bi-compax layout, really the only nod to that classic trackside timekeeping template is the panda colourway – though even then, it’s a light sand colour instead of harsh white. The upshot is a unique tribute to the Dakar rally with Naga’s signature scale detailing across subdials and their serpentine bracelet.
Price and Specs:
More details at Naga.
Matthew Mercury Magnum Black Anniversary, £479
Nothing says traditional luxury like black and gold, and Matthew Mercury’s celebratory Magnum Black Anniversary really leans into that caviar-ready look. The case however leans a bit more into the retro, pairing the same 18kt gold plating as the dial with steel for a taste of 1960s bi-colour across chronograph pushers and bracelet mid-links. The end result is a watch that looks a million dollars but, with a Swiss quartz movement inside, doesn’t cost it.
Price and Specs:
More details at Matthew Mercury.
BND MNGRA, €495 (approx. £430)
Like many microbrands, BND comes from a collector being the change he wants to see in the world. Unlike most, what he wants to see is a genuinely cool, stripped-back military-style diver. You don’t even need the anchor on the dial to imagine this on the wrist of a navy spec ops team. The GRA (Grey) version is a beauty, combining a mid-grey dial with beige indexes across both dial and bezel. Backed by the good ol’ reliable Seiko NH38, it’s like a more accessible Ollech & Wajs – and that’s no bad thing.
Price and Specs:
More details at BND.
AXIA DIASIMOS, £2,231
So far, AXIA has been a bit of a secret, having cut their watchmaking teeth building team watches for college football. But their latest takes things a step further, entering the wider watch world with the DIASIMOS. Originally a Heisman Trophy commission, the DIASIMOS required more work than AXIA’s standard sports watches, with a Grade 5 titanium case, bronze PVD coating and the ever-reliable ETA 2829 movement. Having put in all that effort, the watch is now being made available to anyone that wants to buy it – which, with dress watch style underlining sports watch specs, is going to be a fair few collectors.
Price and Specs:
More details at AXIA.
