Naoya Hida Introduce NH TYPE4A with Vintage 36mm Case for 2023-2024

I know it’s somewhat sacrilege to suggest that Switzerland doesn’t produce the best watches in the world, but you just have to take a look at the best watchmakers in Japan to realise that the gap between Swiss watches and the competition isn’t as large as people sometimes claim. Especially when it comes to Japanese independents like Hajime Asaoka and the watchmaker we’re looking at here, Naoya Hida, who has just announced their 2023-2024 collection, which includes two new watches, the NH TYPE4A and NH TYPE4A-1.

To avoid confusion, it’s worth noting that NH TYPE4A and NH TYPE4A-1 are structurally and mechanically identical and it’s only the aesthetics of the dials that are different. That means they both have the new, stainless steel, 36mm diameter case with a round, sweeping design, relatively thick lugs and a bezel featuring polished finishing. This is Naoya Hida’s first 36mm wristwatch, the small size giving the piece a vintage feel and placing the focus of the design squarely on precision and quality.

As for the dials, the NH TYPE4A has a silver dial with hand-engraved Arabic numerals in dark grey. There’s also a peripheral minute track on the flange, the part of the display that connects the dial to the crystal around the edge. As a time-only watch, extra care and attention has been paid to the hands, which sit within an internal disc, and they are absolutely lovely. The hour and minute hands are delicately facetted and polished, meaning the light plays off of them in a really satisfying way, while the seconds hand is a bright, vibrant blue.

The NH TYPE4A-1 mixes things up by having a dark grey DLC treatment, which makes it much more sombre. Plus, the dial is made from German silver which means the hand-engraved numerals shine brighter than the dial itself, emphasising the inverse colours to the other version. The style of the central hand stack is the same but for this piece the seconds hand remains silver as well as the hours and minutes.

Powering both versions is the calibre Cal. 3020CS. It’s a manual movement with a 45-hour power reserve and a high frequency of 28,800vph. Unfortunately, you can’t admire it as both models have solid steel casebacks.

Alongside the new watches Naoya Hida has launched a new D-buckle strap system that can be customised to the exact shape and size of your wrist. Due to the necessity of specific measurements involved, this strap option is only available to in-person orders at their office or at one of their shows. Those shows are taking place at various locations of Hong Kong-founded sartorial emporium, Armoury, both in Hong Kong and in the US.

It’s also worth noting that the NH TYPE4A and NH TYPE4A-1 have limited annual productions of 15 pieces each, contributing to 30 of Naoya Hida’s 100 watches for 2023. The TYPE4A is priced at ¥2,860,000 with pin buckle or ¥3,080,000 with D-buckle (approx. £17,200/£18,500) and the TYPE4A-1 is slightly more at ¥2,970,000 or ¥3,190,000 (approx. £17,850/£19,160). They are available through lottery via The Armoury May 14^th – 17^th or through a direct written application to Naoya Hida May 21^st – May 24^th.