Louis Vuitton’s horological vision has changed a lot in a relatively short amount of time. A few years ago I would tell you that Louis Vuitton’s watches were an extension of their fashion collections but today, the Fabrique du Temps is a genuine horological institution creating high quality and interesting timepieces. Just look at the revamped Tambour, it’s a beauty. Now it’s the turn of the Escale collection.
In years gone by, the collection relied on over the top visuals and complications to draw attention to itself, the range has now been redesigned into the sleek Escale time-only edition. And it is stunning.
Previously the signature complication of the Louis Vuitton Escale was the world timer, function famous for its application while travelling. And that connection to travel is something Louis Vuitton strongly want to maintain in the Escale time only edition. However, without being able to rely on multiple time zones on the dial, the concept of travel has now become the subtext for the smallest of details found on the piece rather than the main feature.
For the design, Louis Vuitton turned to their signature travel trunks for inspiration. This may seem obscure at first, but when you look at the watch and the trunks side by side, you can really see the correlation. The join between the lugs and case is based on the reinforced corners of their trunks, as are the riveted hour markers in the cardinal positions on the dial. Meanwhile, the golden stud minute scale is designed to emulate the nails of the lozine running along the trunks’ exteriors.
The texture of the dial has been specially developed to create a connection between the Escale and the trunks. It has a custom grained texture (on two of the four references) that closely resembles the texture of the trunks’ canvas surfaces.
When taken as a whole, the Escale has one of the most subtly brilliant designs I’ve seen in a while. It’s classy and minimalist like a classic round dress watch while at the same time the details are very atypical and single-minded in their commitment to the watch’s concept.
As I briefly touched on above, there are four references in the new collection. The first is a rose gold model with a cream dial and second is a rose gold one with a rich blue dial. The third and fourth edition are both platinum with one sporting a meteorite dial and the other being matte black and set with gems across the dial, bezel and case.
Of the four, all of which are 39mm, my personal favourite is the blue rose gold edition because it feels like the most adventure ready despite being gold, which fits the travel concept best. However, I do have to admit the platinum and meteorite combo is also incredibly striking.
Powering all four versions of the Louis Vuitton Escale is the calibre LFT023, an automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve. It’s equipped with a rose gold micro-rotor visible through the exhibition caseback and the rest of the movement looks great too with a frosted style finish as well as elements of perlage. On top of all that, it’s COSC chronometer certified, meaning it adheres to industry standards of accuracy in multiple positions.
In terms of price, the two rose gold editions are £25,100 and the platinum meteorite edition is £34,000. The haute jewellery edition with all those diamonds is then substantially higher at £160,000. Part of me really wants to see a steel edition that’s more on the accessible side – I think it would suit the design – but as this is Louis Vuitton’s new dedicated dress watch, I won’t be upset if it stays in precious metal.
Price and Specs:
40.5mm diameter x 9.30mm thickness without glass, 12.74mm with domed glass, 189 baguette-cut & brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of 6.41 carats (platinum/baguette-cut diamonds)
More details at Louis Vuitton.
