Back in the days before COSC or METAS were the go to laboratories for chronometric precision, it was Switzerland’s observatories who held the honour. Specifically the Geneva Astronomical Observatory (today operated by TIMELAB), which has been the ancestral home of Swiss chronometry since 1772. Similarly, before the GPHG became the de facto award giver, watchmakers would compete for recognition in Observatory prizes. This is the heritage Louis Moinet are paying tribute to with the new 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire.
The watch is named after a clock commissioned from Louis Moinet in 1806 by Napoleon. However, the design of the watch and clock couldn’t be more different with the modern 1806 presented in practical titanium with a sporty integrated bracelet compared to the opulence of the golden clock. However, there are some classical elements on the display such as the Fleur-de-Lys logo at 12 o’clock and vintage inspired typography. It’s a watch that is full of contrasts that bridge the gap between the past and modernity.
That concept continues across yet more details such as the skeletonised hands which feel modern and yet they are thermally blued, which gives them a classical feel. The same is true of the small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock with its exposed screws on either side of the hands, which feels industrial, paired with a railway track scale, a style popularised more than a century ago.
However, given that the 1806 is a tribute to the Chronomètre d’Observatoire certification, the movement is where a lot of the action is, visible through the exhibition caseback. It’s the appropriately named LM1806, an automatic calibre with 48-hour power reserve and that all important Chronomètre d’Observatoire chronometer certification. That means each movement used in the collection has undergone 15 days of testing in various positions and environmental conditions to ensure it maintains a high degree of accuracy (-4/+6 seconds per day) in accordance with ISO 3159 standards.
As a celebration of the movement, Louis Moinet have given it a specially designed gold rotor that’s skeletonised in order to reveal as much of the movement as possible. As a time only watch, the most exciting part of the movement is the oscillating balance wheel but the rest of the calibre has also been finished to within an inch of its life. With perlage being the main finish of choice.
In keeping with the majority of Louis Moinet’s creations it is price on request. It’s a handsome timepiece that blends modern and classical design in an attractive manner. A fitting tribute to one of the most important chronometric organisations in Swiss history.
Price and Specs:
More details at Louis Moinet.
