New Releases Watches

Jaeger-LeCoultre Upgrades Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel and Power Reserve in Pink Gold and Blue

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel

Late last year Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Master Ultra Thin Moon in a fresh dark blue and pink gold colourway. Evidently it was a big success because now two more versions of the Master Ultra Thin are receiving the same colourway. The new versions are the pink gold and blue Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel and the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel

The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon was first introduced in 2012 and the new edition might be the nicest expression of the piece ever produced. It features a 40mm x 12.13mm pink gold case that pairs nicely with the new blue enamel dial. A sunray burst guilloché pattern adorns the main body of the dial, produced by hand with a traditional rose lathe, with a secondary circular guilloché on the date subdial at 12 o’clock. The contrasting patterns give the piece a geometric aesthetic that feels very Art Deco.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel

Over the top of the guillochéd plate, a layer of Grand Feu enamel is applied, giving the watch that rich blue colour – a shade specially created for JLC. Grand Feu enamel is particularly difficult to create because it involves building up in multiple layers and then firing at 800°C, followed by carefully managed cooling. Even with JLC’s master enameller in charge, the fail rate of dials is high due to the material’s unpredictable nature. However, it’s definitely worth it because the result is spectacular.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel

At 6 o’clock, an open-heart aperture reveals the titular tourbillon working away furiously. It forms part of the Calibre 978, an automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve. It’s JLC’s go to tourbillon movement, used across dozens of references. The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel in pink gold and blue is price on request.

Price and Specs:

Model: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel
Ref: Q13224E1
Case: 40mm diameter x 12.13mm thickness, pink gold
Dial: Blue Grand Feu enamel with sunray guilloché pattern
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 978, automatic, 33 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 45h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, tourbillon
Strap: Blue alligator
Price: Price on request

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve

Next up is the pink gold and blue Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, which is much closer in style to the original pink gold and blue Moon as it doesn’t have a guilloché or enamel dial. Instead it has an equally classy sunray brushed display with a subtle dark blue gradient that fades towards black around the periphery. It’s such a subtle shift in colour that it almost leaves you wondering if it’s a trick of the light playing with the brushed surface.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve

In terms of functions, the display has central hours and minutes with the date and small seconds off-set on subdials. At 10 o’clock is the main power reserve indicator, which features a fraction-based scale rather than the number of hours as seen on previous models. This change is due to the fact that the power reserve of the Calibre 938 has been greatly improved from 43-hours to 70-hours, which is a harder scale to display in a satisfying manner with only five markers.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve

As for the pink gold case, it matches the pink gold hour markers and hands and measures 39mm in diameter with a thickness of just 8.95mm. The Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve in pink gold and blue is priced at £20,400. Both watches here are fabulous examples of JLC’s mastery of all aspects of watchmaking from horology to metiers d’art to artistic style.

Price and Specs:

Model: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve
Ref: Q137258J
Case: 39mm diameter x 8.95mm thickness, pink gold
Dial: Blue with sunray pattern
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 938, automatic, 41 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve indicator
Strap: Blue alligator
Price: £20,400

More details at Jaeger-LeCoultre.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.