There are many IWC chronographs and pilots’ watches on my watch bucket list that I know in my heart I’ll never wear, a sad situation caused by one problem: IWCs are big, too big. Which isn’t necessarily a surprising fact considering their most established watch is called the Big Pilot. However, the less adventurous and more elegant Portofino collection might just fill the IWC shaped hole in my heart, especially with three new 39mm case versions sporting a trio of new colour dials.
While Big Pilots might dominate at IWC, the Portofino has quietly been earning itself a reputation as a simple, elegant and, most importantly, versatile timepiece. With sizes ranging from a tiny 34mm to gargantuan 45mm there are a plethora of complications on offer including moonphases, power reserve indicators and the ever sporty and stylish chronograph. However, like Goldilocks I find that none of the existing collection sit quite right with me.
Enter the Chronograph 39. The minimal, round case is made from stainless steel with two prominently featured pushers and a simple crown. At 39mm, a new size for the collection, it doesn’t overwhelm the wrist as some larger IWCs can but at the same time maintains a solidity that I’m sure would be satisfying to feel in hand.
As far as chronographs go, the three new ones are also on the simpler side of things, limited to a vertically stacked bicompax layout featuring small seconds at 6 and a 30-minute timer at 12 o’clock. If you want more functions, there are plenty of other Portofinos to look at, although I find the essential nature of the two subdials very attractive. And that doesn’t even account for the three new colourways.
The first is a silver-plated offering with sunray brushed finishing and golden hour markers, hands and subdial rims. Speaking of the hour markers, all three follow the Portofino tradition of having roman numerals at 12 and 6 with regular batons filling in the rest, which is slightly odd considering the subdials don’t leave any room for the Roman numerals. The second colour dial is black, also with gold accents.
Lastly, there is a gorgeous sunray brushed green version. It’s an interesting shade, somewhere between olive and more vibrant tones, although we know that olive and khaki are IWC staples from watches like the Mojave desert editions earlier this year. Instead of gold, the green option has rhodium-plated accents.
Inside, you’ll find the Calibre 79350, a 44-hour power reserve toting chronograph movement with a 28,800 frequency. The calibre has Côtes de Genève finishing although you’ll have to remove the solid caseback to appreciate it.
All three watches are presented on matching colour alligator leather straps and they are all priced at £5,150, a sight less than even a basic Big Pilot. At 39mm with some nice colours, they’re an interesting alternative to more desirable IWCs, and really you could pick up both a Portofino and a Big Pilot for an incredibly neat two watch collection.
Price & Specs:
Model: IWC Portofino Chronograph 39
Reference: IW391405 (green dial, green strap)
IW391404 (black dial, brown strap)
IW391406 (silver-plated dial, black strap)
Case/Dial: 39mm diameter x 12.7mm height, stainless steel, green, black or silver-plated dial
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Calibre IWC 79350, automatic, 31 jewels, 272 parts
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 44h
Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, 30-minute chronograph counter, small hacking seconds
Strap: Green, brown or black alligator leather
Price/availability: £5,150
More details at IWC.
