It was an incredibly fulfilling moment last year to help Isotope bring the Oracle Time x Isotope Vitreous Enamel project to life, the first grand feu enamel watch for the British brand. However, I also find satisfaction in seeing Isotope continue to build on and learn from that project with new watches. Which is precisely what they’ve done with the new Altmann x Isotope Osaka Cloisonné Enamel, a collaboration with illustrator and designer Björn Altmann.
This collaboration is based on one of Altmann’s creative influences, which he discussed in his interview with us last year, the artwork of manhole covers. He is the author of Manhole Covers of the World, the definitive book on the subject that presents illustrations of manhole covers from 80 countries. Recreating one of those illustrations on the dial of a watch felt like the natural direction to take for the collaborative watch, and given the intricate linework of the illustrative style, cloisonné enamel felt like the natural technique to employ.
Cloisonné is a sub-type of vitreous (AKA grand feu) enamel that introduces incredibly thin wire framework to the dial. The wire is used to add shapes and patterns to the dial by creating a physical barrier to stop multiple colours from bleeding into each other. Here, silver wire has been used to separate the black and white sections to recreate the manhole cover image. The dials took a full 12 months to develop with only 5 successful pieces reaching full production, which is why this model is strictly a 5-piece limited edition.
The image itself is taken from the municipal manhole cover from Osaka, Japan, hence the watch being called the Altmann x Isotope Osaka. It depicts Osaka castle surrounded by blossom. You would never suspect that it’s a manhole cover unless someone told you or you travel to Japan and notice it for yourself.
Beyond the dial, this is the Isotope Mercury model as we have come to know it already: 38mm diameter steel case with mirror polished finish across the smooth bezel and lugs. Inside is the I-7, a modified ETA Peseux 7001 with manual-winding and 42-hour power reserve. Together the case and movement create a great wristwatch frame for the artwork at its centre.
As mentioned, the Altmann x Isotope Osaka Cloisonné Enamel is a limited edition of 5 pieces at a price of £3,600 on white rubber strap or £3,800 with additional bracelet. For a cloisonné enamel dial, that’s pretty crazy value. Plus, the watch also comes with a signed copy of Manhole Covers of the World as an extra treat.
Price and Specs:
More details at Isotope Watches.
Very beautiful work. So much more exquisite than so many hyper-expensive watches.
Stunning. Isotope are massively underrated.