A couple of years ago we were complaining that Grand Seiko didn’t do watches that were different enough for one another; nowadays it looks like we’re spoiled for choice. Our choice of the moment? The Spring Drive GMT Limited Edition SBGE245.
It has the look of a serious diving watch, with it’s rotating bezel, luminous indexes and that rugged stainless steel case, let down only by it’s 200m water resistance rather than the professional standard of 300. Still, when it looks like this we’re happy to forgive that – and a lot more besides.
There’s a distinct vintage feel to the watch and, while a good part of that is the mahogany brown dial and its subtle gold accents, that’s not all. The shape of the watch as a whole is based directly on the original 2001 watch that first incorporated a GMT into the spring drive. That GMT function can actually be used in conjunction with the rotating bezel to track three different time zones. You know, for when two just isn’t enough.
On the practical side, it’s a hard-wearing piece and not just because of the case. The crown is squirrelled away at 4 o’clock to minimise the amount of times it’s going to get knocked and the phenomenal Spring Drive movement has built-in protection. That includes extra shock resistance and the ability to withstand gar greater or lesser temperatures than most watches would dare.
Pop it on the bright orange silicon strap and you have a seriously cool watch that can survive anything you want to throw at it (above 300m at least). It also shows that, far from sticking to their same winning formula again and again, Grand Seiko is willing and capable to try something new. Well, provided it’s somewhere in their archives at least.
Price & Specs:
- Model name: Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Limited Edition SBGE245
- Dial/Case: Diameter 44.0mm × Thickness 14.7mm, stainless steel
- Movement: Calibre 9R66
Power reserve: 72 hours (3 days)
Water resistance: 20 bar
- Price & availability: est. £5,700, limited edition of 600pcs
More at: www.grand-seiko.com