Sinn watches are generally considered serious value propositions, with their intensely technical looks and specs to match but, until recently, I’ve not considered them lookers. Respectable, functional but not exactly handsome. The new 105 Series changes that.
Toning down the usual militaristic design codes used in their dive and pilots watches, the new 105 collection gives Sinn’s technical style a more versatile, sporty and minimal look. The utilitarian design ethos certainly remains, with their angular crown-guard and lugs but paired with the almost Bauhausian sparse dials and flashes of royal orange they’re softer on the eye.
The collection can be broken down into two pairings, the first of which is the 105 St Sa (steel and sapphire) with its multifunctional bezel. Well, calling it multifunctional may be a bit of a stretch; what Sinn means by that is a second time zone bezel that also happens to have a minute track on it. I suppose it is technically multifunctional as you can keep it in place for the minutes, but I feel like that’s a stretch.
It does look good though and the Black Hard Coated bezel has been hardened using Sinn’s TEGIMENT technology, which makes a surface more resistant to wear and tear. It works really well in contrast to the white dialled version, though the black on black is a bit more restrained and in line with what collectors know Sinn for. Both have a few orange highlights to stop it falling into the monochromatic.
Inside the 41mm stainless steel case is a Sellita SW 220-1 calibre with a 38-hour power reserve, operable via Sinn’s distinctive, oversized crown. It’s reliable and accessible but nothing too showy. One of the coolest little quirks of the watch though is the day date function, which is vertically displayed at 6 o’clock.
The second pairing of pieces is the 105 St Sa UTC, which as the name suggests takes the general shape and layout of the 105 and adds a second time zone, again available with either a black or a white dial.
Overall the UTC version hits the same notes as the standard 105, albeit with a 24-hour bezel rather than the 12-hour version with minutes. That makes it a little more minimal, as does the lack of that quirky day indicator, opting for date only.
As with most modern GMT pieces, you can set the bright orange 24-hour hand separately from the local time, as well as using the bezel, meaning that if your memory’s good you can keep track of three time zones. Alternatively, you can use it as a compass, pointing the 12-hour hand at the sun. The 24-hour hand will then point to North.
The SW 330-1 automatic movement used in UTC ups the power reserve to 42-hours as well as adding the GMT function. Otherwise it’s much the same as the SW 22-01, as you can see through the sapphire caseback.
Of the two the 12-hour is where my money would go. A GMT is a useful function for sure, but there’s just more personality to the 105 St Sa, especially with the white dial. I’m not sure I’d ever call the bezel multi-functional though. Either way, all four pieces hammer home just why Sinn’s a serious value proposition.
Price & Specs:
Model: Sinn 105 St Sa
Ref: 105.010 (105 St Sa, black dial)
105.011 (105 St Sa, white dial)
105.020 (105 St Sa UTC, black dial)
105.021 (105 St Sa UTC, white dial)
Case/Dial: 41mm diameter, stainless steel
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Calibre SW220-1, automatic, 26 jewels (105 St Sa)
Calibre SW330-1, automatic, 25 jewels (UTC)
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38h (105 St Sa), 42h (UTC)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date & day display, bidirectional multi-functional rotating bezel with minute ratcheting and luminous key mark, second time zone on a 12-hour basis (105 St Sa)
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, rotating bezel with 24-hour ratcheting, second time zone on a 24-hour basis (UTC)
Strap: Alligator leather, stainless steel bracelet or silicone rubber
Price/availability: €1350 EUR – leather and silicone strap, €1550 EUR – bracelet (105 St Sa)
€1590 EUR – leather and silicone strap, €1790 EUR – bracelet (UTC)
More details at Sinn.