Despite being a little more under-the-radar than their painfully cool Prospex collection, the Presage is nonetheless a serious contender to more classical Swiss timepieces. Now they’ve taken what they’ve learned with their limited edition Prospex drops and capsule collections and applied it here, with the Presage Sharp Edged Series.
Sharp is right; on paper the 100m water resistant, 39.3mm stainless steel cases (and one rose gold-plated version) with a super-hard coating are venturing slightly into sports watch territory. It’s rugged, well-proportioned and a solid, everyday timepiece, like any Presage before it.
However, the more angular profile with pronounced, beautifully polished sides and a bracelet drawn from the upper echelons of Seiko watchmaking show that they’re bringing more than the occasional Spring Drive movement from Grand Seiko into their more accessible collections.
The clear-cut theme followed onto the dials too, with a hexagonal the Japanese Asanoha pattern you certainly won’t see on any Swiss watches. The overlapping geometry of the hemp leaf motif catches the light every bit as spectacularly as the polished case sides, and is available in some truly lovely colours, all inspired by nature.
Shironeri is a pure, snowy white; Tokiwa is a deep, forest green; Aitetsu is steel blue and the most eye-catching of all is the woody bamboo brown of the Susutake. The first three are available on the steel case; the Susutake only on the rose gold.
Inside all four pieces is the Calibre 6R35 automatic movement with an impressive 70-hour power reserve. It’s visible through the sapphire caseback, though you can clearly see in the finishing that these are most definitely not Grand Seiko pieces. It’s a little lacklustre.
All three stainless steel models (SPB165, SPB167 and SPB169 for white, blue and green respectively) come on integrated steel bracelets, in line with their sporty-elegant appearance; the rose gold edition (SPB170) comes on a black leather strap to make it more of a dress piece.
After flexing their muscles in the dive watch market aplenty of late, the Presage Sharp Edged Series seems a direct contender to some of the more classical Swiss watches. Given the incredible value here (€990, or just over £880) it’s hard to see why you wouldn’t buy Japanese.
Price & Specs:
Model Name: Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series
Ref: SPB167 (blue dial)
SPB165 (white dial)
SPB169 (green dial)
SPB170 (brown dial)
Case/Dial: 39.3mm diameter x 11.1mm height, stainless steel
Water Resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Calibre 6R35, automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power Reserve: 70h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet or cordovan leather
More details at Seiko.