First designed in 1996, this newest entry into Parmigiani Fleurier‘s Toric family shares the same shell as previous models. Most strikingly that means the collection’s signature triple-banded bezel inspired by the golden ratio of Grecian columns, a visual technique apparently naturally eye-pleasing.
Here that’s definitely true; the shape of the Toric is downright lovely, if a step away from the elegant minimalism the rest of the watch exhibits.
Where this new piece differs however is on the inside. Rather than the usual Toric innards, this piece uses the Calibre PF517, a flying-tourbillon equipped number originally used in the Tonda 1950. It’s an exquisitely finished movement Côtes de Genève and Barleycorn guilloche in spades. More impressively though, thanks to a mix of inspired construction and a platinum microrotor, the movement is just 3.4mm thick.
In case terms, that means 9.45mm which is more incredible on the wrist than it is written down. It’s also quite noticeable as the rose gold case is 42.5mm wide, meaning the new Toric a substantially flat disk on your wrist.
The size and flatness makes all kinds of sense when you see the dial, which has been given a rice grain guilloche pattern that’s hard to take your eyes off. It too is inspired by the Golden Ratio, though taken from the Fibonacci spiral of a pine cone rather than a nautilus shell. It’s been used on other Torics in the past thanks to that link, and here the slate grey works painfully well with the rose gold case.
The only interruption is the flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock and, while I love the dial, if you’re going to interrupt it with anything it may as well be your yearly dose of haute horology. The 60-second cage also doubles as a small seconds indicator, clearly visible thanks to the blued steel pointer.
Needless to say something of this level – and made almost entirely (bar the Hermes strap) in-house – doesn’t come cheap. The limited edition of 25 pieces will retail for CHF 130,000 – just shy of £110,000.
Price & Specs:
Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier
Model: Toric Tourbillon Slate
Case/Dial: 42.8mm diameter x 9.45mm height, polished 18k red gold, rice grain guilloché dial
Water Resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Calibre PF517, in-house, automatic, extra-thin flying tourbillon with micro-rotor
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power Reserve: 48h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, tourbillon
Strap: Hermés Havana Alligator with 18k red gold pin buckle
Price: CHF 130,000, limited to 25 pieces
More details at Parmigiani Fleurier’s website.