Panerai Radiomir GMT 45mm PAM00998
PAM00998

Green is in horological vogue. It’s undeniable by now, after we’ve seen most major watchmakers giving it a trial run to see if it suits them. Some have been a bit hit and miss; some have managed to pull it off. Panerai’s latest attempt is firmly in the latter camp… and they’ve pulled it off magnificently. This time, the brand is paying homage to its history as the sole supplier of wristwatches to the Royal Italian Navy, with a collection of four classic Radiomir 1940 watches sporting matte military-green dials.

The new Radiomir quartet covers everything you want out of Panerai. I’ve always preferred the more elegant, almost dressy look of the collection to the bulkier, crown-guarded Luminor and Submersibles, and here that minimality shines.

The four are essentially just a facelift, replacing the usually black, sometimes cream dials with a dark, matte green. It’s nothing ground-breaking of course, but combined with gold hands and cream numerals it’s beautiful, even for non-Paneristi.

Panerai Radiomir 45mm PAM00995, €10,900

Panerai Radiomir 45mm PAM00995Specs: 45mm diameter x 12.2mm height, polished steel case; 100m (10 bar) water resistance; in-house calibre P.4000, automatic movement; 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency; 3 day power reserve; dark brown calf leather strap with additional beige canvas strap; €10,900; exclusive at Panerai boutiques.

The first of the four is the PAM00995, a basic hours and minutes with small seconds at 9 o’clock, a classic Panerai in every way with its 45mm steel case, paired with a chocolate brown strap. Then we have the PAM00998, a GMT version that’s pretty much the same but with the addition of a date at 3 o’clock and a 24-hour hand underneath the small seconds. Same size, same colours, slightly lighter strap. Penultimately is the same GMT, but this time with a power reserve in the form of the PAM 00999, a more military evolution of the current collection version in textured black.

Panerai Radiomir GMT 45mm PAM00998, €11,700

Panerai Radiomir GMT 45mm PAM00998

Specs: 45mm diameter x 13.95mm height, polished steel case; 100m (10 bar) water resistance; in-house calibre P.4001, automatic with micro-rotor; 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency; 3 day power reserve; light brown calf leather strap with additional beige canvas strap; €11,700; exclusive at Panerai boutiques.

Panerai Radiomir GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM00999, €11,900

Panerai Radiomir GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM00999

Specs: 45mm diameter x 13.95mm height, polished steel case; 100m (10 bar) water resistance; in-house calibre P.4002, automatic with micro-rotor; 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency; 3 day power reserve; dark brown calf leather strap with additional beige canvas strap; €11,900; exclusive at Panerai boutiques.

Panerai Radiomir 48mm PAM00997, €12,900

Panerai Radiomir 48mm PAM00997

Specs: 48mm diameter x 16.12mm height, sandblasted matte black ceramic case; 100m (10 bar) water resistance; in-house calibre P.3000, hand-wound; 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency; 3 day power reserve; black calf leather strap with additional beige canvas strap; €12,900; exclusive at Panerai boutiques.

Panerai Radiomir 48mm PAM00997

Then we have the beast of the bunch, the PAM00997. At 48mm this is a massive piece with a full black ceramic case. It’s not to be worn by the faint-hearted – or slight wristed – but certainly has impact, in much the same way a meteor does. Fitted to black leather, it’s the kind of watch I wish I could wear.

Four green dials, four cool watches, four perfect Panerais. The only downside in fact is that you’ll need to head to a Panerai boutique to snag these beauties. I’m not saying they’re bad places of course; they’re just too tempting to be fair.

More details at Panerai’s website.