I’ve always had a soft spot for Oris’ Big Crown Pilots pieces, with their chunky, tool watch feel and stripped-back look. Apparently though, they’re not stripped back enough for Oris themselves, who have now created the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115, which leaves absolutely nothing to the imagination.
The key word here is skeleton. Pretty much every part of the movement, bar a few bridges getting in the way, is on show. You can see the gears operating the ten-day power reserve, the barrel that tightens as you wind to hold all that energy and a few bright red rubies here and there.
In fact, its so stripped back dial-wise that there aren’t even any numbers on the dial. Sure, that stretches the definition of a pilots’ watch which, by necessity, should be easy to read at a glance. But then, the technical look of the new piece would certainly look at home in a cockpit.
In fact, the case more than anything leans into the aviation theme. At 44mm, it’s a nice size for this kind of watch and its shape is inspired by a 1938 original. The main point of difference is the titanium which, with the signature knurled bezel, is a little more contemporary.
The movement itself is the titular Calibre 115 and it’s not hard to see why Oris want us looking at the thing. It was originally conceived as a skeleton in its own right, meaning that it not only wastes no material, but it fits the new case flawlessly. Its ten-day power reserve is more than a little impressive and has a raw, galvanized look rather than the usual beveling and finishing of a Swiss watch.
The whole thing is set on a beautifully articulated integrated bracelet, made specifically for this watch in the same vein as the case. It’s arguably the most work that’s gone into a single recent Oris – the reason for its two-year development.
The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 is a new direction for Oris, inspired by rather than designed for aviation and with a striking new look it’s a bold statement for the watchmaker. It’s one of the watches we’re most excited to get on our wrists right now.
Price & Specs:
Model Name: Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115
Ref: 115 7759 7153 7 22 01 TLC
Case/Dial: 44mm diameter, titanium, skeletonised dial with hands and indices filled with Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Oris Calibre 115, in-house
Functions: Hours and minutes, small seconds between 7 and 8 o’clock, non-linear power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock, fine timing and stop-second devices
Frequency: 21,600 (3 Hz)
Power Reserve: 240h
Strap: Multi-piece titanium bracelet with “lift” clasp
Price: £5,950 (bracelet), £5,600 (strap)
More details at oris.ch