With its intensely architectural, haute horology look, Breguet’s Tradition collection looks anything but traditional, especially when put next to the actual Souscription pocket watches that inspired it. Now, the Tradition is getting a new member that’s even less classical, with the addition of the collection’s first date – and this being Breguet, it’s retrograde.
The Tradition Retrograde Date is a sight to behold, much like the rest of its openworked siblings. Yet rather than leave the balance wheel and central mainspring completely to their own devices, the large retrograde date spreads across the lower half of the dial, making the most of the negative space.
To make sure it doesn’t run into the various wheels, there’s a little right-angled kink in the blued steel hand, and for ease of use can be quick-changed using the pusher at 10 o’clock. The actual date scale is in anthracite to make it that much more readable against the open movement.
The rest of the watch is pure Breguet, meaning a silvered gold, engine-turned dial at 12 o’clock with plenty of Clous de Paris and an elegant 40mm white or rose gold case. Finishing across the board is, of course, typically impeccable.
The movement itself boasts a respectable 50-hour power reserve and due to the silicon balance spring (it’s not just Omega that love the stuff) offers impressive reliability. Not that you particularly want to be knocking the Tradition Retrograde Date around.
Coming in at £32,000, it’s not cheap but for an openworked timepiece from one of the infest watchmakers out there, it’s not bad at all.
Price & Specs:
Model Name: Breguet Tradition Retrograde Date
Ref: 7597BR/G1/9WU (rose gold)
7597BB/G1/9WU (white gold)
Case/Dial: 40mm diameter x 12.10mm height, white or rose gold
Water Resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Calibre 505Q, 14½ lignes, automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power Reserve: 50h
Functions: Hour, minute, seconds, retrograde date
Strap: Alligator leather
More details at Breguet.