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In Focus: Olivier Jonquet

Olivier Jonquet Marine Capitaine Limited edition 5

Olivier Jonquet Marine Capitaine Limited edition 5 (€1,890)

France isn’t exactly rife with watchmakers. Sure, most of the watch world is French speaking, but that’s the price you pay for Swiss craftsmanship. In fact, you pretty much need to go all the way back to Abraham-Louis Breguet for the heyday of horlogerie Francaise. There is light at the end of the tunnel, however, and his name is Olivier Jonquet.

Like many a new watch brand, Olivier Jonquet is a passion project, one sparked by a single flash of inspiration. That inspiration came in the form of a vintage 1920s watch Olivier himself just so happened to come across. With its cushion-shaped case and classical dial, it was a beautiful piece that the watch lover became obsessed by.

At first he just sketched the idea, for no reason other than to see what his perfect watch would look like. Then he mocked it up in 3D, just to get a better look at it, nothing more. Then he went to suppliers, you know, just to see how impossible it would be. The problem was that it wasn’t impossible – and so the Elie was born.

Olivier Jonquet Black Capitaine

Olivier Jonquet Black Capitaine (€2,390)

The first limited edition timepiece was a Francophile through and through. The vast majority of the components were French, from the case and hands to the new old stock movements inside. That was back in 2014 and since then, Olivier Jonquet has come a long way.

The current mainstay of the collection is the Marine Capitaine. It has the same 1920s-inspired case as the original timepiece, but with, as the name suggests, a bit more of a nautical feel, with dials with a similar vibe to old marine chronometers. It comes in six variations, depending on if you prefer Roman or Arabic numerals, blue steel or rose gold hands or black or white dials. There’s even a PVD edition for a slightly more modern twist.

While they may be classical on the outside, from the elegantly curved hands to the fluted crown, inside each is a simple yet reliable ETA 6498-1 movement. That’s not a bad thing though; it means that rather than paying extortionate amounts for some haute horology in-house movement, the Marine Capitaine is exceptionally accessible. Even at the top end, the PVD black version, you’re looking at just under £1,900.

Olivier Jonquet Marine Capitaine Limited edition 2

Olivier Jonquet Marine Capitaine Limited edition 2 (€1,890)

It’s a seriously impressive price for a rare French watch, especially one in such a beautiful Art Deco style. However, there may be even bigger things on the horizon for the still fledgling brand: a new French manufacture.

This summer, Olivier Jonquet will be opening his very own workshop in the idyllic Tarascon in Provence. That’s a huge step for any watchmaker and will mark a new era for Olivier Jonquet. With that to come, what better time to buy in to a rare French watchmaker than now? Vive la France. More details at Olivier Jonquet’s website.

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About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.