What began as a graduation project in Architecture for Michiel Holthinrichs has now become an industry leading independent brand dedicated to the art of 3D metal printing technology, all in the span of just 10 years. To celebrate the milestone of their 10th anniversary, Holthinrichs have released the new Signature Lab Series 1.S and Signature Lab Series GMT, with the latter being the first GMT in the collection.
Both watches measure 38.5mm in diameter in 3D-printed titanium with a combination of bead-blasted and brushed finishing. 3D printing allows for much more intricate designs than traditional manufacturing techniques because the watch is being built layer by layer rather than cut or machined. The prime example of that is the skeletonised lugs, which are incredibly thin with a flowing, organic shape that adds a nice contrast to the overall brutalist aesthetic of the case.
For the dials, they are hand-made with a domed shape and copper patina giving them a distinctive oxidised appearance. They look amazing with deeply carved lines radiating outwards from either the small seconds subdial on the Signature Lab Series 1.S, or the central handstack on the Signature Lab Series GMT.
The small seconds subdial is inspired by the first ever Holthinrichs watch: the Ornament 1, which is the production name for the original project that started the brand 10 years ago. Where the 1.S is therefore nostalgic and backwards looking, the GMT looks forward to new designs. It’s the first GMT in the series and uses a short GMT hand with 24-hour scale (using Breguet numerals) to display a second time zone. The travelling theme of the complication is emphasised by the inclusion of a world map on the dial.
Powering the 1.S is the Sellita SW360 with 56-hour power reserve, while inside the GMT is the SW330 with 42-hour power reserve. Both movements are equipped with hand-made carved patina rotors that look like ancient relics. In combination with the patina dials, they give the watch the air of a modern piece of architecture that has been left abandoned for decades like a deserted city.
Both versions of the watch are presented in 100 piece limited editions. The Signature Lab Series 1.S is priced at €5,900 (approx. £5,100) and the GMT is €6,500 (approx. £5,625), excluding VAT in both cases. These are some of the most captivating and visually appealing watches the brand has produced across their 10 years, really showcasing the brand’s growth from where they started.
Price and Specs:
Sellita calibre SW330, automatic, modified (1.GMT)
Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT (1.GMT)
More details at Holthinrichs.
