The Hermès Cape Cod is a bit of an odd duck. Released in 1991, it was a bold slice of Hermès’ quirky Parisian style and one that’s become a bit of an icon for the maison. But it’s also one that appeared a little before they took the watchmaking part of their watches more seriously. Now though we have a refreshed Cape Cod, one that’s taken what Hermès has learned with the supremely cool H08 and adapted it for its own ends.
Henri d’Origny is a legend. Not only is he the man behind Hermès’ famous silk scarves and ties, but he’s had an equally confident hand in their watches. It was he who originally designed the Cape Cod, with its distinctive square shape elongated by its lugs into a rectangle. It was a nod to the chains of anchors – hence the New England coastal name – and was a different approach to the brand’s equestrian heritage.
The flipside is that it always felt like a fashion watch. A well-made fashion watch of course, but one that opted for aesthetics over mechanics. So, we weren’t sure what to expect when we got to see a refreshed version at Watches & Wonders earlier this year. What we got was a Cape Cod that feels more serious and wearable than it’s ever been before.
First, let’s start with the case. At 41mm with a lug-to-lug of 46.15mm, making it substantially bigger than the previous Cape Cod, whose lug-to-lug measured just 41mm. And that was the largest version. The new watch also measures 33mm in width and 10.36mm thickness. The 2026 Cape Cod fits the wrist much better, but honestly, the size is not the most important change.
The previous, 1991-derived case was all rounded, polished steel; now it’s flat-planed, brushed titanium and the difference is dramatic. Even the rounded lugs that give the Cape Cod its rectangular profile are slightly squarer and the end result is a watch that feels much more masculine than a size change alone could ever manage. The same elements are there but remixed into something with the same darker, machined twang of the H08.
That’s not the only element lifted from the H08 of course. The new Cape Cod reflects its shape on the dial, with an inset, grained square emphasizing its concentric rigid lines. The effect is similar to the inner track on the H08, sharing a design language even if it takes on a different shape. The same can be said of the numerals, something the Cape Cod previously went light on. Now, it has a full 1 through 12 in Hermès’ signature typography, applied, rhodium plated and almost frustratingly cool.
At the same time, the Cape Cod feels very distinct from the H08. One is sporty, curved and faceted with many different elements. The new Cape Cod is much more streamlined, letting its square-in-a-rectangle do all the talking. It’s also less… intense. There’s something about the H08 that suggests Hermès take it a bit too seriously. That makes sense; it was in many ways their breakthrough watch to reach more serious collectors. But the 2026 Cape Cod energises that design ethos with a bit more fun. Or at least, as fun as brushed titanium and a black dial can be.
The Cape Cod is now available on a quartet of colourful straps and really, this is a watch that deserves – requires, really – a funky strap. The shape of its lugs already emphasises whatever you have it on and while the black, blue, orange and yellow options are eye-catching, I’d love to see some completely insane versions, too. Jean Rousseau’s electric blue lizard number might have found a perfect home.
Inside is the Hermès H1912 calibre automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve. This is a movement built by the maestros at Vaucher (which Hermès owns 25% of) and is visible, impeccably decorated, through the sapphire caseback. With a 4Hz frequency, it’s solid, reliable and accurate.
The new Cape Cod is a more than welcome refresh of a watch that, while popular, didn’t have the recognition among watch collectors that it maybe deserved. By splicing in DNA from the successful H08, the maison has created something that ticks some of the same boxes – light weight, sleek and sporty – but in a quirkier, more charming way. It makes a really interesting, fashion-forward alternative to its proper sports watch sibling.
The only downside is that at £6,340, it’s a slightly higher entry price than the H08’s £6,220 – and in that match up, despite really liking this watch, I’d always go for the H08.
Price and Specs:
More details at Hermès.
