How Matt Cross Created the Ultimate American Cult Watch Brand: HELM Watches

Vanuatu, $285

In the sprawling world of independent watchmaking, plenty of brands claim to deliver rugged capability and honest value. But few have achieved what HELM Watches has, an almost cult-like following built not on hype or limited runs, but on something far more old-fashioned: trust. I talked to the founder Matt Cross about the values and principles behind this cult hit.

HELM doesn’t play by the rules of purposeful scarcity marketing. They don’t manufacture artificial demand with “drops” that disappear in seconds. Instead, their watches are so consistently over-subscribed that enthusiasts willingly add their names to multi-year waitlists, lists they might never climb to the top of, just for the chance to buy one. That kind of patience isn’t typical in today’s watch world. And it says something powerful about what HELM has created.

The brand’s story begins with Matt Cross, a long time watch enthusiast with a love of dive watches and, as he puts it, “a collector on a tight budget.” Like many of us, Cross was frustrated by the gap between quality and affordability in the watch market. Too often, the watches that checked all his boxes were either priced far out of reach or no longer available.

Vanuatu, $285

After more than a decade in product development within the bicycle industry, Cross relocated to China in 2013. Surrounded by the world’s largest watch manufacturing hub, he realized he was in the right place at the right time to chase a hobby that always been chasing him. One prototype led to another, and in 2015, HELM released its first model, the Vanuatu.

That debut was more than just a successful watch launch for Matt and the HELM brand. It was the start of a relationship between HELM and a devout community of enthusiasts who would come to treat the brand less like a company and more like a trusted craftsman for the next ten years.

The HELM brand was built with an intention to remain strong and personal, even in its founding. As Matt says, “the literal meaning [of HELM] conjures images of the sea and exploration is important for us, but beyond the literal, HELM is an acronym for the family members who founded the brand”.

Vanuatu Titanium, $350

HELM’s design ethos is refreshingly straightforward: build clean, functional, affordable tool watches that can handle real-world abuse. In a landscape where many microbrands borrow the same suppliers, movements, and case materials, HELM distinguishes itself with two deliberate commitments: rigorous ISO 6425 dive testing and uncompromising value.

“Value. We try to offer thoughtfully designed, well-built watches at attainable prices. Value is something we look for in any product we purchase, and when we started HELM Watches we felt like only a handful of brands were offering great value. It’s easier to find now, with so many new brands entering the market in the past 10 years, but it’s still a major focus for us.”

It’s easy to overlook what those commitments mean. ISO 6425 testing for example, the gold standard for dive watches, isn’t just a rubber stamp. It’s time-consuming, expensive, and risky since failed tests destroy watches. Most small brands outsource or skip it altogether. HELM insisted on doing it themselves, ensuring that when a HELM watch claims 300m of water resistance, it’s not just a spec sheet number or the word Diver’s on the dial.

Khuraburi, $310

Then there’s pricing. HELM doesn’t chase prestige margins. The goal is to make quality dive and field watches attainable, watches that people actually wear daily instead of protecting in a safe. “Buy what you like, keep what you love,” is the company’s guiding principle, and it shows in every model they’ve built. In fact, all HELM models currently listed can be found in the sub £400 range.

It’s not just the specs or the prices that fuel HELM’s appeal. It’s the relationship between the brand and its buyers. Enthusiasts know HELM won’t cut corners, and they know every watch is checked, tested, and built with the intention of being worn hard. That level of trust breeds loyalty and loyalty feeds demand.

Khuraburi, $310

As a result, HELM has created something rare: a voluntary backlog. People willingly sign up for years-long waitlists, knowing that their patience will eventually be rewarded with a watch that’s worth far more than its asking price. In an era of instant gratification, that’s no small feat. You can put your name on the waitlist as I did, for the Komodo featured here, and about a year later, I received an exciting e-mail from HELM letting me know my spot was up. The price point of HELM makes this a worthwhile exercise if interested, given some larger brands may expect you to dish out multiple thousands of dollars, when you aren’t necessarily expecting it, or prepared for it. You can also track your spot in order via the waitlist function on the HELM website.

HELM is not a brand that churns out endless models or experiments recklessly as Matt mentioned to me. They release about one new model per year, sometimes less, and they produce them in small, carefully monitored batches. That pace frustrates some eager buyers, but it also ensures that quality control never slips and that every watch earns its place in the lineup.

Komodo, $295

“The slow pace is a result of our small size. We have a small team and stay pretty busy managing sales and day-to-day operations, so we squeeze in the development of new models when we find time. In addition to that, we do like to get as many details as possible right with the first production, so the design and prototyping process can take a while.”

The Komodo and Togiak illustrate this balance perfectly: one compact diver designed for daily adventure, one titanium field watch with global travel in its DNA. Together, they show a brand that knows exactly who it is and what it wants its watches to represent.

Togiak, $380

And that’s why HELM has achieved cult status, especially in the United States. Not because they shout the loudest, but because they’ve quietly built a reputation for delivering exactly what they promise: tool watches that perform, that last, and that don’t require a second mortgage to enjoy.

In the end, HELM’s story is as much about its community as it is about its watches. The waitlists aren’t a gimmick, they’re proof of trust earned over time. Buyers are willing to wait years because they know what they’ll get: a watch built on honesty, utility, and lasting value.

Komodo, $295

Where some brands manufacture hype, HELM doesn’t have to. Its following shows that patience, paired with integrity, still resonates in modern watchmaking. HELM isn’t about pristine display cases or perfect conditions, it’s about tools meant to be used. So if a Komodo or Togiak turns up in a drawer 100 years from now, Matt hopes it leaves signs about the wearer. It’ll be evidence that its owner lived out HELM’s values with pride and purpose. “We hope they’ll recognize the owner was someone who appreciated practical products designed to serve a purpose and wasn’t afraid to knock them around a little.”

And if there’s something you want to know about the brand, don’t rely on speculation, reach out. As Matt himself notes “sometimes people make assumptions about the brand, and I sometimes wonder why they don’t do a little more research or simply contact us to get accurate information rather than speculating or making assumptions, but I don’t have enough free time to worry too much about that.” Straightforward, practical, and unwilling to play the hype game, that’s HELM. A brand defined not just by the watches it makes, but by the honesty and clarity with which it stands behind them.

HELM Komodo

Among HELM’s standout models, the Komodo captures the essence of what the brand does best. Inspired by Indonesia’s Komodo Island, famous for both its dragons and its waters teeming with marine life, the watch is a serious diver wrapped in a compact, versatile form.

At 40mm in diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug, the Komodo is a sweet spot for many wrists: small enough to wear comfortably day-to-day, yet muscular enough to inspire confidence in the water. With a 300m depth rating, screw-down crown and caseback, domed sapphire crystal, and ISO 6425 certification, it’s every bit the professional diving instrument. This is however a thick case design, at 15.5mm with the domed crystal it’s no dress watch, but the lug-to-lug and case diameter make it so that you don’t notice the depth in a negative way.

The Seiko NH35 automatic inside is a proven workhorse, reliable, easy to service, and perfectly suited to a watch that encourages real-world use over display-case admiration. The Komodo also reflects HELM’s love for customization, offering multiple dial options and swappable bezels, plus compatibility with stainless bracelets, rubber, and nylon straps. I opted for the 03AR3 model in light blue with a mint NS1 Nylon strap (free with stainless bracelet).

What makes the Komodo special isn’t just its durability, but how approachable it feels. This is the kind of watch you don’t hesitate to throw on whether you’re traveling, hiking, or just heading to work. It embodies HELM’s philosophy that great tool watches should be used, not babied.

HELM Togiak Expedition UTC

If the Komodo is HELM’s answer to below the surface, the Togiak Expedition UTC is the brand’s call to exploration on land and in the air. Named for the vast Togiak National Wildlife Refuge in Alaska, a wilderness of mountains, rivers, and glacial lakes, the Togiak was designed as a field watch with global ambitions. Its Grade 2 titanium case and bracelet make it tough yet lightweight, measuring 42mm across but wearing comfortably thanks to a restrained 14mm height and a tapering bracelet. At just 145g on titanium, it’s significantly lighter than most steel tool watches in its class.

Powering the Togiak is Seiko’s famous NH34 automatic, which brings UTC functionality (often called GMT) into the mix. That means the Togiak isn’t just built for the wilderness, it’s built for world travellers who need to keep track of multiple time zones. Combined with a 200m water resistance rating, sapphire crystal, and multiple bezel variations (elapsed time, countdown, 12-hour, 24-hour, and compass), the Togiak becomes one of the most versatile tool watches under £400. The Togiak is incredibly comfort and hits the understated design on the head, with a pop of yellow on the GMT hand.

The design is clean, legible, and purposeful, qualities that align perfectly with HELM’s ethos. Whether crossing mountain ranges or navigating an airport terminal, the Togiak Expedition UTC feels like a watch that can and should go everywhere.

More details at HELM.