Perpetual calendar complications are one of the most prestigious in haute horology, and while the Swiss are masters of high watchmaking, you can never count out precision German engineering. Which is why Glashütte Original’s new update to the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is exciting. It introduces a limited edition rose opaline dial and dark blue colourway to the collection as well as an updated movement.
The overall design of the watch is pretty much untouched from the non-limited edition versions. It has the same 42mm circular case made from stainless steel and maintains its 12.8mm height. The display layout is also largely unchanged with Glashütte Original’s signature panorama date in the same place on the dial between 4 and 5. The weeks, months, leap year indicator and moonphase are also unmoved.
However, there are a few visual changes. Obviously, this is a new colourway, so the dial has a new rose opaline (which may as well be called salmon) base and dark blue accents and numerals. In fact, the full use of Roman numerals is also new because previous editions primarily used baton markers, with Roman numerals limited to 12 and 6 o’clock. The salmon and blue combination works well and makes for a warm and cohesive design, the blue tone of the numerals matched with the moonphase and the various date windows.
I like that it has regular date windows instead of a multitude of subdials or more extreme methods of telling the time because it makes it one of the most legible perpetual calendars around. My only comment would be that since the panorama is lovely and big, it makes everything else on the dial feel a touch too small. Even the moonphase, which is roughly the same size, could do with being a tiny bit larger.
Under the surface there has been another change, the movement has been updated to the calibre 36-12. Most of its specs are the same as the 36-02 found in the previous Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar, but now it has a skeletonised rotor with a 21-carat gold double G marking. It adds an extra layer of visual flair to what’s already an impressive automatic movement. It has a 100-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring so it should be easy to maintain the watch’s precision and calendar functions even if you set it aside for a couple of days.
The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition is limited to 100 pieces globally and it has a price of £18,200. That’s definitely expensive, but if you compare it to the more famous salmon dialled perpetual calendar from Germany, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 which is close to £100,000, it’s actually on the more affordable side and is a great alternative to said Lange 1.
Price & Specs:
Model: Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition
Reference: 1-36-12-01-02-61 (alligator strap), 1-36-12-01-02-71 (stainless steel bracelet)
Case/Dial: 42mm diameter x 12.8mm height, stainless steel case, galvanized rose opalin dial blue appliques
Water Resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Calibre 36-12, automatic, 49 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power Reserve: 100h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, second stop, perpetual Calendar with day of the week, month and leap year display, moon phase, panorama date
Strap: Blue Louisiana alligator leather or stainless steel bracelet
Price/availability: £18,200, limited to 100 pieces
More details at Glashütte Original.