There are a million ways to create iconic and distinctive dials. Diving watches are famous for their utilitarian legibility, Grand Seiko rule the texture game and watches like Patek Philippe’s rare handcrafts showcase what some dial art can do. Dials are the focus of Girard-Perregaux’s new Eternity Editions, bringing enamel to the Laureato and Cat’s Eye.
Now, while there are two watches here, everything I’m going to say about the Laureato is also true of the Cat’s Eye, so I’m only going to discuss the Laureato. Since it is by far the more versatile and wearable of the two.
As briefly mentioned, the Laureato’s new dial is made from enamel, specifically grand feu enamel which is one of the most complex types to produce. Grand feu is typically only used by high end watchmakers or artisanal brands who specialise into that singular skill, as it is both costly and time consuming. The slow production process involves repeatedly creating layers of enamel that are then heated to 800°C and the dial can crack at any point during that process, undoing hours of work and wasting the materials.
However, the results of a success are well worth the painstaking efforts. Grand feu doesn’t fade, maintaining a rich colour throughout the watch’s life, hence the Eternity name.
The new Eternity collection Laureato has two enamel dials to pick from in jewel-like tones of green or blue. The rich colours are further enhanced by the sunray finishing that makes the dials pop.
Everything else about the watch is business as usual. The 42mm Genta-esque, quasi-brutalist steel case and integrated bracelet contrast brilliantly with the bright, high-end enamel dial and beneath sits the GP01800 calibre automatic movement with a 54-hour power reserve.
The Eternity Laureato and its sister Cat’s Eye both showcase the in-house enamel dials really well, but Girard-Perregaux have shown that they can take extraordinary design to an even higher level with the third new watch in the Eternity collection, La Esmerelda, which you can read about here. The two colour options for the Laureato are each limited to 188 pieces priced at £11,700, with the Cat’s Eye only available in blue and limited to 88 pieces at £13,700.
Price & Specs:
Model: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Eternity Edition
Reference: 81010-11-432011A (blue dial), 81010-11-433011A (green dial)
Case/Dial: 42mm diameter x 10.68mm height, steel case, blue or green enamel dial with a guilloché sunray motif
Water Resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: In-house GP01800 calibre, automatic, 28 jewels, 191 parts
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power Reserve: 54h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price/Availability: £11,700, limited to 188 pieces
More details at Girard-Perregaux.