“Sports Watch” is one of the most difficult watch archetypes to define because it encompasses such a huge range of styles and designs. It’s the sort of archetype that’s defined by exclusion: it’s not a dress watch, it’s not a dive watch, it’s not a pilot’s watch, it’s not a field watch. It’s also slightly removed from the concept of an integrated bracelet sports watch, which has specific aesthetic connections to the 1980s. Remove all that and you’re left with a medium to large watch, often in practical materials like steel or titanium and which doesn’t kowtow to any specific school of style. You get, in fact, a watch like the Formex Essence, which is presented in a new edition, the Essence 41 Space Ghost.
While the dial is the most eye-catching part of this new release, let’s actually start by talking about the case. This is the first standard Essence to be presented at 41mm in diameter. Until now, this mid-range size has been restricted to the Essence Leggera sub-collection with its black carbon fibre and ceramic construction. The mainline Essence has been restricted to either 39mm or 43mm, meaning the new piece adds a perfect mid-point option, literally the goldilocks zone between the two.
On the wrist, the watch sits incredibly well with the slight downturn of the lugs guiding the bracelet smoothly down the sides of my wrist. The lug-to-lug of 46.4mm is great, making the watch feel fairly large on the wrist without any unsightly overhanging. The thickness of around 12mm can be described in much the same way, bold without being overwhelming. I know a lot of conversation recently has been about vintage proportions and smaller sizes but personally I’ve been enjoying bigger watches and the Essence 41 has a big watch attitude without the drawbacks of an actual behemoth.
Now we come to the Essence 41 Space Ghost’s dial, which is produced from meteorite, hence the reference to space in the watch’s name. It has the characteristic Widmanstätten pattern with its naturally occurring striations that are formed when the metallic components (iron and nickel) are super-heated and cooled by the processes of being formed in space. Not only does it have a dramatic look to it, but it also makes each dial unique.
Speaking of unique-ness, what makes this meteorite Essence different from Formex’s previous Space Rocks offerings is the addition of blue hour markers and hands, which are presumably the ghostly aspect from the watch’s name. The polished finish makes them as shiny as the metallic meteorite below, if not even more so. Catching the eye and making the watch more legible than previous monotone editions. Though I do think the monochrome feels a bit cleaner on a stylistic level compared to the blue here, which can be almost distracting. Certainly not distracting though is the tiny date window, which is if anything too small.
Taking off the watch off you can appreciate its three-link steel bracelet and new micro-adjustment butterfly clasp. The new clasp was developed in collaboration with Formex’s sister company Dexel, leader in the watch bracelet and clasp game. While the watch is off it also allows us to take a look at the caseback, revealing an exhibition window. Through said window you can see the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. It’s the COSC chronometer grade version, meaning it’s been tested in multiple positions and regulated to an improved level of accuracy.
The Formex Essence 41 Space Ghost is not a limited edition though it does have a limited annual production of 150 pieces per year. It’s priced at $2,290 (approx. £1,720) on steel bracelet – the correct choice – or $2,190 (approx. £1,645) on leather, rubber or nylon strap. While the meteorite dial will please a lot of people, by the same margin, there are a lot of people who will be looking forward to a full Essence 41 collection.
Price and Specs:
$2,190 (approx. £1,720) (bracelet)
Limited to 150 pieces
More details at Formex.
