Doxa Launch SUB 200 II with First Fumé Dials and New Colours

Over the years Doxa has steadily diversified its SUB diver range to include everything from dedicated deep sea models like the recently relaunched 750T to style focussed models like the SUB 300β. Today, their most accessible model, the SUB 200 has received an aesthetic and structural update, which is being introduced as a second generation of the series – which includes the brand’s first ever fumé dials. Appropriately it’s called the Doxa SUB 200 II.

The primary structural update is that the case is now thinner than ever. The 13.8mm thickness of the first generation has been reduced to 12.8mm, a full 1mm reduction that shouldn’t be underestimated when it comes to comfort on the wrist. Especially as it has a 44mm diameter, making it a large watch to begin with.. The overall shape is unchanged as well with a continuous curve from lug to lug, featuring polished bevels along the edge. They’re produced in steel with one of the new references featuring a DLC coating for a darker appearance and improved scratch resistance.

For the dials, there are a few styles included in the Doxa SUB 200 II revamp. As I mentioned in the introduction, they’ve presented the first ever Doxa fumé displays – featuring colour gradients that fade to black around the periphery of the display to create a smoky appearance. There are three fumé editions: Sharkhunter Vintage (grey), Caribbean (blue) and Sea Emerald (green). Those are joined by a standard Sharkhunter in pure black and a completely new colour for the SUB range Redcoral (red) exclusively for the DLC edition.

The idea behind the use of fumé is that as the SUB 200 II is their most accessible model, it should also be their most relaxed – moving away from some of the stricter requirements of professional dive watches such as matte, monocolour dials that promote better legibility. The trade off is a bit of a flashier style (literally with the use of sunray finishing) designed to look good day-to-day on land.

Below the dials is the Sellita SW200 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve. That’s quite an outdated movement by modern standards and to my mind doesn’t reflect how Doxa want to present themselves on the market, even for their most accessible model like the SUB 200 II. At the very least, I would expect them to transition to the more recent Sellita SW200 calibre with improved power reserve. It’s the one mark against what is quite a fun revamp of a core collection. For pricing, they’re £1,450 on bracelet and £1,390 on strap. That’s an increase compared to the previous model, which was £1,090 on bracelet.

More details at DOXA.