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Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald Watch Review

Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald

It might only be April, but it already feels like I’ve written “one of the major trends for 2024 is smaller watches” so many times that I’m beginning to feel like a broken record. However, so long as it continues to be true that brands are releasing smaller watches, we’ll continue to talk about it. The latest brand to release a smaller iteration of one of their signature watches is Doxa, who have released this, the new Sub 200T.

Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald

On the wrist, this might be the most comfortable Sub to date, especially for those with slimmer wrists like me. The dimensions measure 39mm x 41.5mm x 10.7mm whereas the Sub 300T, the watch’s larger predecessor, is 42.5mm x 44.5mm x 13.65mm. That’s a considerable reduction in size on every conceivable axis, which has a huge impact on how the watch wears. It may just be a placebo effect, but it feels notably lighter to wear and is much easier to slip under a cuff.

Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald

While the watch is smaller, the style of the Sub 200T is largely identical to the 300T launched in 2019, which is itself inspired by the original 300T Conquistador from 1968. It has wide, sweeping flanks that arc from lug to lug with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces. Atop the case sits a unidirectional diving bezel with both timing and decompression scales. What that means is despite the reduced proportions it remains a practical tool watch.

Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald

While we’re talking about practicality, we have to talk about the face that in addition to the reduced size of the Sub 200T, it also has a significantly reduced water resistance rating compared to Doxa’s professional dive watches. It only has a 200m rating compared to 1,200m on the 300T. It is without question the area of biggest criticism that the Sub 200T will face. However, I don’t think it’s too much of an issue considering it’s positioned more as a versatile watch for any occasion rather than being a purebred diver.

Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald

Speaking of versatility, there are 13 versions of the Sub 200T being produced, each available on a choice of stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap. By version, I mean different coloured dials with one of two finishes. There are eight colours total, the standard seven (orange, black, silver, blue, yellow, turquoise and white), as well as a brand-new addition to Doxa’s range, the Sea Emerald green I have here. Each colour is available with either a matte or sunray brushed finish or both. I like the richness of colour and the shine of the sunray on the Emerald edition that gives it a gem-like quality.

Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald

Turning the watch over reveals a solid steel caseback protecting the movement housed inside. Doxa are one of the few brands remaining who don’t reveal the precise movements they use. Although it’s something of an open secret that they use Sellita calibres like the SW200-1, a movement that matches the specs of the Sub 200T with its 38-hour power reserve.

Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald

In terms of price, the beads of rice bracelet editions in any colour with either finish are £1,490 and the rubber strap versions are £1,450 excluding VAT. That price puts them right in competition with watches like Seiko Prospex Divers such as the Ref. SPB333. I think that’s good company for the Doxa Sub 200T, occupying the popular niche that sits between accessible and professional dive watches.

Price and Specs:

Model: Doxa Sub 200T Sea Emerald
Case: 39mm diameter x 41.5mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Green
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW200-1, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: FKM rubber strap or stainless steel beads of rice bracelet
Price: £1,450 (rubber strap) or £1,490 (bracelet)

More details at Doxa.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.