Brands these days tend to like to keep things safe, well within their wheelhouse. That’s simply not the case with French watch brand Corum. When it comes to their three main collections, eclectic is an understatement. Put them side by side and you could be forgiven for assuming they were from three entirely different watchmakers.
In fact, except for the occasional watch here and there most brands like to keep things safe, well within their wheelhouse. That’s not the case with Corum. When it comes to their three main collections, eclectic is an understatement. Put them side by side and you could be forgiven for assuming they were from three entirely different watchmakers.
First there’s their sailing-inspired Admiral collection – formerly the Admiral’s Cup back when the regatta was actually running – which is one of the more interesting sports watches out there with its faceted case and nautical pennants.
Some of the Admirals lean into the classic sailing theme, with dials made to look like a wooden deck; others are anything but traditional. The latest Admiral Skeleton uses the same case, but that’s about it; it removes the dial completely, highlights the hands in bright blue and drapes the whole thing in an oddly-shiny PVD coating. It’s certainly more on the performance side of the sports-chic spectrum.
Secondly, there’s the Bubble, which takes the concept of an art watch to the extreme. Designed back in 2000, the oversized watch, with its even more ridiculously-sized crystal, is an interesting enough shape, but it’s the dials that make it stand out. It’s not that they’re particularly mechanical – bar the occasional roulette-themed piece – but Corum’s partnerships with artists, designers and the like are extraordinary.
Ranging from the less-than-pleased lunar face of A Trip to the Moon (Le Voyage Dans la Lune for the purists) to Matt Barnes’ seriously sinister clown (yup, we’re still freaked out that he’s staring at us above), Corum has put pretty much anything you can imagine under that glass. It’s a simple idea, but one that’s given the watchmaker licence to build one hell of an eye-catching collection. Needless to say, they’re hard to miss, especially in the huge 52mm versions.
The Golden Bridge Stream Bridge Automatic (CHF 64’800) and Mini Bubble (below) both show off the brand’s creativity.
Finally, there’s the Golden Bridge, Corum’s 1980s haute horology masterpiece. Some are round, others are rectangular; some are dusted with diamonds, others keep things simple, but at the core of each and every one is the titular previous metal bridge.
The bridge in question certainly isn’t just for looks either; there’s far more depth to the Golden Bridge than that of the Bubble. For a start it acts as a support for the entirety of Corum’s uniquely architectural, linear movement. The calibre CO 113 is amazingly compact, too; with it leaving room either side for the watch’s signature girder-like ‘dial’. For anyone else, these collections could be the token wacky, design-led pieces that watchmakers roll out to try and prove they’re not all safe diving watches and classic dress pieces. Together, they paint the picture of a brand with too much creativity to be entirely kept in check by fears about commercial appeal.
At first glance it might make them look a little haphazard. Even the price points are completely different between watches, with the entry-level Admirals going for around £2,500 and the Golden Bridges for 10 times that. It’s a startling range, one that makes Corum a difficult brand to discuss in some respects. Without that range though, there would simply be no room for this kind of unbridled creativity.
Sure, it wouldn’t be difficult for Corum to tone things down, to build a few watches that could pass for a Submariner from afar. Hell, they could even go for a year or two without putting sadistic clowns front and centre, but where would the fun be in that? And at the end of it all, that’s what matters. Even in their Heritage collection – the part of any brand that would be the most classical – it’s anything but. Sure, it contains some relatively low-key watches, but the bright dials of the Heritage La Grande Vie aren’t exactly shy and retiring. Neither is the Romvlvs Billionaire, a diamond-encrusted, skeletonised rock of wrist candy. In short, where other watchmakers’ design ethos is effectively treading on eggshells, Corum’s is like a bull in a china shop. It’s loud, eclectic and at times chaotic, but whatever else it may be, it’s always adventurous.
More at: www.corum-watches.com
