
Following the launch of the new Citizen Series8 collection inspired by winter cityscapes. I’ve had the opportunity to get hands on with the Series8 880 Mechanical “Traveller GMT” model. How does it stack up in the metal compared to on paper?
Out of the box, the first thing that you can only really appreciate when you pick up a watch versus reading about it is the size. The reality of its 41mm x 13.5mm dimensions comes into stark focus with its tall sides, angular integrated lugs and broad surfaces. It’s also weighty with its steel construction, protected by a dark grey plating that is actually so dark it looks almost black in most lighting.

That dark colour provides a strong contrast to the gold plated 24-hour bezel that sits above. It has a chunky grip around the edge, making it easy to rotate in both directions. It’s split into day/night indication with a white portion for day and black for night, playing into the whole winter theme of the watch with snowy days and pitch black nights.

The same colours are the focus of the dial, which features a frosted texture over the top of a black fumé gradient, creating the impression of ice over asphalt. Getting to see it in person, it’s even more apparent that they’re inspired by the amazing work of fellow Japanese brand Grand Seiko with creations like the Genbi Valley. Though actually comparing the precision and execution of the dials isn’t particularly helpful given the price different.
I actually think the dial would benefit from a less busy design. The golden hour markers feel a bit too distracting and It’s also lost a little due to the high bezel and bi-colour design. Take the exact same dial design and put it in the 37mm Tsuyosa and it would be an immediate winner. Giving space to the dial, which is actually quite nice with its eye-catching sparkles and fun gradient, would let it sing.


One aspect of the Series8 880 Mechanical “Traveller GMT” I admire much more having been hands-on is the bracelet. The H-link design is very comfortable and it has one of the most ergonomic folding clasps I’ve used, with wide, easy to press buttons to open it. Poorly designed clasps are one of my pet peeves, especially fiddly ones with buttons that are too small or ones that try to be innovative but just end up annoying, but this is a classic example of a simple design being executed well resulting in superiority over anything else.
When you undo the bracelet and slip it off your wrist you can also admire the exhibition caseback, revealing the Citizen calibre 9054 finished with stripes across its plate and rotor. It’s their automatic GMT movement with 50-hour power reserve. It achieves a pretty reasonable accuracy of -10/+20 seconds per day, though naturally if you want a more accurate watch you should probably look to Citizen’s Eco-Drive collections.

Limited to 1,600 pieces at £1,495, it sits almost exactly halfway between accessible models like the Tsuyosa and Citizen’s luxury models such as the Citizen Washi Paper Dial. I do think its bold, almost brash design will appeal to certain collectors, though it doesn’t necessarily mesh with my personal style. If they tone it down the proportions of the case a touch, I’d be on board.
Price and Specs:
More details at Citizen.
I wish Citizen could make a version of this watch that is simply silver stainless steel or titanium with a white dial and steel bezel. The dial of this watch is gorgeous but give us a simple edition in addition to the black and gold.
The other Citizen Series 8 GMT’s are great, I have the “Batman” and it’s grown on me. My only gripe is there’s no micro adjustment on the clasp.