The Cartier Tank is perhaps the most enduringly popular watch in history. There has never been a time when a Tank worn well hasn’t elicited quiet admiration from watch enthusiast circles. The very first Tank was created in 1917 but it was in 1922 when Louis Cartier expanded the watch’s horizons to the far east with the Tank Chinoise, inspired by traditional arts from China. Exactly 100 years later it’s been redesigned in six new versions.
In keeping with the Tank’s enduring popularity, the Chinoise has had several revamps over the years but the last time was back in 2004, so it’s overdue for an update. That’s been achieved with a 39.5mm x 29.2mm case available in various materials and a choice of two updated dials (split three-three across the six watches) with modern movements.
First up are the three closed dial versions, which happen to be our favourites. Rendered in yellow gold, rose gold and platinum, the trio of precious metals really suit the thicker lines of the Chinoise’s case. But it’s the dials that stand out with a sun brushed finish, clean Art Deco style and subtle colourations that reflect the case materials. The closed dial versions contain the 430MC movement, which is Cartier’s premier mechanical calibre, manual winding with a 38-hour power reserve.
Then, there’s also a trio of skeletonised models. There’s a yellow gold version and two platinum with one of the platinum editions set with 161 brilliant cut diamonds. The openworked dials feature a Chinese inspired design of red and black lacquer, through which you can see the movement below. That movement is the 9627 MC, developed exclusively for the Tank Chinoise, and it has the same specs as the 430MC including the 38-hour power reserve and manual winding.
Cartier aren’t the sort of brand to let any Tank variant miss its centenary and with a refreshed look and movement, the new Chinoise pieces are a welcome comeback for the sub-collection.
Price & Specs:
Model: Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise 2022
Case/dial: 39.49mm x 29.2mm diameter x 6.09 mm height, yellow gold, rose gold or platinum case, sun brushed dial (closed dial versions)
39.5mm x 29.2mm diameter x 7.70mm height, yellow gold, platinum or platinum with case and buckle set with 161 brilliant-cut diamonds, openworked dials feature a Chinese inspired design of red and black lacquer (open worked dial versions)
Movement: In-house 430 MC calibre, manual winding, 18 jewels (closed dial versions)
In-house 9627 MC calibre, manual winding, 23 jewels (open worked dial versions)
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 38h
Functions: Hours, minutes
Strap: Semi-matt black or shiny blue and semi-matt red alligator leather
Price/availability: TBC, closed dial versions limited to 150 pieces, open worked dial versions limited to 100 pieces and open worked dial version with diamond set case limited to 50 pieces
More details at Cartier.