At this point, Bulgari can probably have a bit of a rest from breaking records. 10 world records in 11 years sounds exhausting. But then the question becomes: if you’re not gunning for a record, how else can you riff on something as distinctive as the Octo Finissimo? By making it smaller not in thickness but in diameter.
Previous Octo Finissimo automatic models measured 40mm across; now we’re presented with a new 37mm case. That’s not an insubstantial shift downwards, but one that when I saw it in my inbox, I was genuinely excited to get on my wrist. I’ve always loved Bulgari’s ultra-thin watchmaking, even when I had to roll my eyes at yet another record, but I’ve always found them a bit too large. This move made perfect sense to me.
But downsizing here isn’t as easy as it would be in a more traditional watch. The way the movement is built means that it uses every micron of space inside the case. Paired with the razor-sharp finishing that relies on the slick case construction and that signature octagonal bezel, surely Bulgari would have to compromise for the smaller footprint.
Well, the good news is that the new Octo Finissimo has lost nothing in the downsizing. In fact, with the smaller dimensions, the polished edges are that much sharper and finer than previously. Those edges catch the light no matter how you hold your wrist across the multi-layered, many-faceted case and bracelet.
Of course, the slight issue with all these gorgeously polished edges is that they show up fingerprints like nothing else. On a round watch that’s less of a problem as they’re easy to give a quick wipe-down, but getting into all of the Finissimo’s nooks and crannies is finger-numbing madness – double for those polished mid-links on the bracelet. The thing is, it’s well worth it.
There are three different versions of the new 37mm Octo Finissimo: Brushed titanium, polished titanium and yellow gold. The brushed titanium feels like the weakest of the three simply because it’s entirely matte. It has a cooler, modern edge with the darker grey metal, but the matte finish just doesn’t have the same visual impact. It’s a bit too flat, which for a watch based around thinness is a shame.
The polished titanium is the aesthetic middle ground, much more practical than gold but with the same monochromic look and mix of brushed and brightly polished surfaces. But the gold… that’s something else entirely.
I’m a huge fan of monochrome watches at the best of times, all the more so if they’re all-gold. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Milanese was one of my favourite pieces from last year and I still have worryingly suggestive dreams about it. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm yellow gold scratches a similar itch. Sure, the bracelet’s not quite as sexy but the Finissimo case very much is.
On the wrist the new 37mm sizing doesn’t feel small. I find 37mm a very forgiving size for my 17-inch wrists, but as square watches inherently wear bigger – they cover a lot more of the wrist after all – the Octo Finissimo sits perfectly. Even without the punchy presence of the polished surfaces – as on the titanium edition – there’s some serious impact here.
As this is a Finissimo, it wears like the ultra-thin slice of watchmaking it is. But if you were expecting another world record breaker then you’re out of luck. Bulgari are slacking this year and these new models have gained around the waist, measuring a chunky 2.35mm thick. That’s nearly two-and-a-half credit cards, up from the previous 2.23mm. For shame.
There is a reason for the extra poundage however. Despite the new calibre BVF100 being a smaller overall movement, Bulgari have brought the power reserve up to 72-hours from the previous 60. Those extra hours of spring need to go somewhere and they’ve gone on top. That’s an extra hour for each .01mm which I think we can all agree is a fair trade.
Honestly, if you can tell the difference on the wrist between this and a 2mm watch, you’re far more discerning than I. Though I was less concerned about it snapping in two than I was wearing the Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. The fact that Bulgari can get so much aesthetic nuance into such a small space is testament to their mastery of the ultra-thin. It’s almost exhausting.
The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm has me genuinely more excited than a new record-breaker would have. It shows that the jeweller-come-watchmaker isn’t just focused on headlines but in making what they’ve already created more wearable – and that’s more laudable than any unobtainable minute repeater.
Now, if they happened to put it on an integrated Milanese bracelet…
Price and Specs:
More details at Bvlgari.
