New Releases Watches

Breguet Unveil Type 20 and Type XX Heritage Chronographs with New Flyback Movement

Breguet Type 20 Chronograph 2057 Type XX Chronograph 2067

First, let’s address the numerical elephant in the room, which is the fact that one of Breguet’s new chronographs is called the Type 20 Ref. 2057 and the other is called the Type XX Ref. 2067. Why is one 20 and the other XX? Well, the difference lies in the heritage watches that they’re inspired by. The vast majority of Breguet’s military and civilian chronographs use Roman numerals but there was a short period from 1955 to 1959 that the military references used Arabic numerals. As the modern Type 20 is based on a watch from that period it has adopted the Arabic style while its civilian sister model retains the Roman style. Nuances of naming conventions aside, let’s dive into the latest generation of Breguet chronos, starting with the Type 20.

Breguet Type 20 Ref. 2057

Breguet Type 20 Chronograph 2057

As mentioned, the Type 20 is based on a watch from the late 1950s. Specifically, it’s inspired by the Ref. 7211, one of 1,100 watches delivered to the French Air Force by Breguet at that time. What that means for the modern watch is that it has a 42mm case with a pear-shaped crown. It’s a really handsome case that really emphasises its retro military aesthetic with a fluted bezel that would be easy for a pilot to use if it had any timing scales on it. For the Ref. 2057 they’ve decided to leave the bezel plain, although that’s not the case for the 2067 as we’ll see in just a moment.

Breguet Type 20 Chronograph 2057

Moving on to the dial, it’s a fairly accurate homage to the 7211. It’s black with mint green lumed hands and hour markers making the whole piece nice and legible. The chronograph function consists of a central flyback chronograph hand with a 30-minute timer subdial at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9. However, the modern iteration does have a notable update in that those subdials now follow a big eye style and there’s a date window between 4 and 5. ‘Big eye’ is when one subdial, typically the one at 3 o’clock, is larger than any other subdial on the watch, giving the display an asymmetrical appearance. It serves to highlight the key functions of the piece, in this case the 30-minute timer.

Breguet Type 20 Chronograph 2057

Below the surface of the watch is housed a brand new Breguet movement that’s been in development for the last 4 years. It’s the Calibre 7281, an automatic flyback chronograph with a 60-hour power reserve and a high frequency of 36,000 vph or 5Hz. What we know about the movement is that it has a silicon balance spring, escape-wheel and pallet-lever horns giving it plenty of anti-magnetic properties and Breguet have filed a patent for a redesigned flyback system. Flyback is the term given to a chronograph that can be stopped, reset and started again with a single pusher press.

Breguet Type 20 Chronograph 2057

I’m a real fan of this watch. Compared with the Type XXI from 2021, which I also really like, the Type 20 is far more elegant and refined. It feels like a vintage watch even though it houses some of the most up to date Chronograph technology on the market. Pricewise, it’s £16,400, which is a lot but if you reread the last sentence that will probably justify it to you.

Price & Specs

  • Ref: 2057ST/92/3WU|
  • Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 14.1mm thickness, stainless steel case, black dial|
  • Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)|
  • Movement: Breguet calibre 7281, automatic, 34 jewels, 399 parts|
  • Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 60h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph|
  • Strap: Calfskin leather with additional NATO|
  • Price/availability: £16,400

Breguet Type XX Ref. 2067

Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067

The Type XX Ref. 2067 is the civilian counterpart to the military Type 20. Like most vintage mil-spec pilots’ watches that grow to encompass civilian models, the story goes that as the Type XX grew in popularity Breguet realised that there was a market for the watch outside of the military and started to create versions specially for the public. The historic reference here is the 2499.

Just looking at the Type XX next to the Type 20 you can see the differences that make is a Civ model. The crown is small and more classical as it doesn’t need to be operated wearing thick military pilot’s gloves. Plus, the bezel features a 12-hour scale allowing it to display a second time zone, useful for travellers but not essential in combat. In general, there’s just a little more focus on style and providing as much information as possible as opposed to being sharply honed and utilitarian.

Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067

The same is true of the dial. It’s a tricompax chronograph display with a 15-minute timer at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour timer at 6 and small seconds at 3. Like the Type 20 it’s a big eye display, although this time it has some historical precedent as the 2499 was also a big eye. In terms of differences to the Type 20 though, the Type XX has vintage inspired beige lume that leans into the retro style a bit more than the green and the hands have a pronounced taper that looks more refined but isn’t quite so legible.

Housed inside is the same new movement as in the other watch, although due to the different complications present it has a slightly different name – it’s called simply the 728 instead of the 7281. Specs-wise it’s exactly the same with that 60-hour power reserve, high frequency and vertical clutch chronograph.

Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067

Despite the differences between the two new watches, they have the same price with the Type XX Ref. 2067 also being £16,400. Both watches are great additions to the range and they really epitomise what a modern vintage revival should be. Aesthetically they’re incredibly similar to the originals while under the surface they’re cutting edge thanks to that new calibre. It’s a real toss-up on which of the two I’d go for but I think in the end the Type 20 just about takes it for me.

Price & Specs

  • Ref: 2067ST/92/3WU|
  • Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 14.1mm thickness, stainless steel case, black dial|
  • Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)|
  • Movement: Breguet calibre 728, automatic, 39 jewels, 350 parts|
  • Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 60h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph|
  • Strap: Calfskin leather with additional NATO|
  • Price/availability: £16,400

More details at Breguet.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.