One of the trends we anticipated at the start of the year is the continuing growth in accessible haute horology. New technology and manufacturing techniques mean that materials and complications once reserved for the most exclusive ateliers are now available to a new wave of independent brands. One such brand at the forefront of this wave is Blackout, who have created the XP1 Tourbillon Swiss Made at a price less than five figures. I’ve been hands-on to learn more.
The inclusion of Swiss Made in the name of this watch is an important distinction because historically Blackout has used Swiss expertise and Asian components, which while perfectly acceptable often carries a certain stigma. This time though, they have adhered to the requirements of the Swiss Made designation, meaning the watch has a movement assembled by a Swiss manufacture, a minimum of 60% of the production is carried out in Switzerland, the watch is assembled in Switzerland and quality control is conducted in Switzerland.
Aesthetically, the XP1 Tourbillon Swiss Made falls into the category of urban sports watches with a bold integrated bracelet and high-performance materials. Specifically, it has a tonneau case measuring 44mm x 52mm with a thickness of 14.8mm made from Blackout’s UAC forged carbon. On the wrist that makes it quite a beast in terms of size, sitting tall and proud. Though the sharp downward angle of the integrated rubber strap means it sits on my wrist surprisingly well. The spring leaf deployant clasp is also easy to use and comfortable.
Forged carbon is a robust, lightweight material made from chopped carbon fibres that are pressed together under extreme pressure and heat with a resin to create a composite material with a distinct surface pattern unique to each watch. Blackout’s specialty is adding luminous powders to the resin so that it glows under UV light adding an extra visual element to the design. The structure of the case is very robust with chunky shapes and visible screws along the flanks.
For the dial, the XP1 Tourbillon Swiss Made presents a skeletonised display with black architecture suspending the movement’s core components. The tourbillon performs its ballet at 6 o’clock, with the balance spring oscillating back and forth inside its rotating cage. The other prominent features are the twin power barrels at 2 o’clock and 10 respectively. It’s fun to see the springs getting wound tauter and tauter as you wind the crown.
The movement itself is the DW&Co Swiss Made flying tourbillon, D.W & Co. being a watchmaking workshop and service centre in Geneva with both COSC chronometer and Poinçon de Genève calibres to their name. The movement here has an 80-hour power reserve with chronometer level accuracy of -0/+6 seconds per day.
For pricing and availability, the Blackout XP1 Tourbillon Swiss Made is £6,650 in a limited edition of 50 pieces. It’s available for pre-order now with delivery expected in July. That price is almost unheard of for a Swiss Made tourbillon with chronometer level specs and a forged carbon case. So if the tonneau sports watch archetype is your jam, here’s where you should be looking.
Price and Specs:
More details at Blackout.
