Guides Watches

The Best New Releases from Geneva Watch Week

DeBethune DB28 XS Purple Rain

The big news this month was of course Watches & Wonders, but despite Geneva’s Palexpo playing court to watchmaking royalty both accessible and prestige, there was plenty more going on in elsewhere in the city. After all, not every watchmaker is part of a big group. So, to avoid cool timepieces being subsumed into the hype of Watches and Wonders, here are ten of the coolest releases you might have missed from last Geneva Watch Week.

Space One Tellurium

Space One Tellurium

Following on from the success of the space-age ( and sold out) Jumping Hour Space One launched the futuristic Tellurium. Featuring a planetry wheel complication linked to a calendar and a jumping month, this is a watch that provides a haute-horology vibe without destroying your bank account. The brainchild of watch entrepreneur Guillaume Laidet and independent watchmaker Théo Auffret this is really one of the most exciting brands out the currently and with only 73 left at the time of writing, if you want one move at warp speed.

Price and Specs:

Model: Space One Tellurium
Case: 42mm diameter x 16mm thickness, titanium
Dial: Aventurine
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Soprod calibre P024 H4, automatic, 25 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38h
Functions: Hours, minutes
Strap: Black fabric with grade 5 titanium buckle
Price: €2,999 (approx. £2,500), limited to 500 pieces

More details at Space One.

HYT T1

HYT T1

It wasn’t that long ago that it looked like HYT’s signature fluid display method had them corralled in a very small, very specialist space. Then they started showing off what else they could do and now they have the T1, a watch that pairs that fluid-filled timekeeping ring with a watch that would be a stunner with or without it. Backed by bellows and a fine capillary system, the T1’s crowned with a gorgeously brushed dial in a few low-key colours and an intensely modern faceted case. There’s a lot to love here and for once in a long time, we’re genuinely excited about what HYT will do next.

Price and Specs:

Model: HYT T1
Ref: H03206-A (Titanium Slate), H03208-A (5N Gold Titanium Deep Blue), H03207-A (Titanium Salmon), H03205-A (Titanium Silver)
Case: 43.5mm diameter x 17.2mm thickness, titanium or 5N pink gold coated titanium
Dial: Slate, petrol blue, salmon or silver coated brass
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: HYT calibre 501-CM, automatic, 41 jewels, 352 parts
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72h
Functions: Hours, minutes, power reserve
Strap: Black rubber with additional rubber strap
Price: CHF 48,000 in titanium (approx. £42,500) and CHF 64,000 (approx. £56,530) in gold and titanium (excl. taxes)

More details at HYT.

DeBethune DB28XS Purple Rain

DeBethune DB28 XS Purple Rain
DeBethune DB28 XS Purple Rain

There’s eye-catching then there’s this. De Bethune’s latest embraces the tentative trend towards purple wholeheartedly with not the usual PVD coating we’ve all grown used to, but by thermally changing the colour of titanium. The result is a deep, iridescent hue across both case and hypnotically wavy dial – a dial that gives the watch it’s Prince-centric name. Paired with De Bethune’s signature, faux-futuristic architecture, it’s one of the most eye-catching watches we’ve ever seen. And with all that titanium, it’s incredibly lightweight and comfortable on the wrist meaning that, even if you’re not sure you can rock the purple, you’ll want to.

Price and Specs:

Model: DeBethune DB28XS Purple Rain
Ref: DB28XSPR
Case: 38.7mm diameter x 7.4mm thickness, purple titanium
Dial: Purple guilloche with starry sky and white gold stars
Movement: De Bethune calibre DB2005, automatic, 27 jewels, 160 parts
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 6 days
Functions: Hours, minutes
Strap: Canvas fabric
Price: CHF 90,000 (approx. £80,000), limited to 25 pieces

More details at De Bethune.

Singer Reimagined Divetrack

Singer Reimagined Divetrack

It’s been a minute since Singer released a genuinely new watch rather than a riff on their racing chronograph, but now that it’s here we can categorically say it was worth the wait. Rather than a dive watch with a chronograph shoehorned in, the Divetrack is built from the ground-up to be genuinely useful to underwater timekeeping. The big, 49mm titanium case is a submarine beast with 300m water resistance, and makes good use of that size with the 24-hour chronograph timing split into three zones: Chill, Dive and Fly. The first helps you determine your time between dives; the second is shows when you can hit the water again and the last is the time necessary before you can fly, to avoid serious health issues. This is one of the best divers of the year.

Price and Specs:

Model: Singer Reimagined Divetrack
Ref: SR401
Case: 49mm diameter x 19.67mm thickness, titanium
Dial: Matte black
Movement: Singer Reimagined calibre AgenGraphe, automatic, 56 jewels, 479 parts
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph
Strap: Black caoutchouc with additional textile strap
Price: CHF 80,000 (approx. £70,500), limited to 25 pieces

More details at Singer Reimagined.

Vanguart Orb

Vanguart Orb
Vanguart Orb

We’ve seen a lot of flying tourbillons this year – first world problems and all that – but this has to be one of the coolest. Available in 41mm in titanium or gold, depending on if you’re a lightweight or heavyweight, this mix of hand-finished, intensely architectural madness swaps a classic dial for a look at everything under the hood, arranged in a way that can be described more as sculptural than your usual automatic layout.

It’s also worth noting that you can switch between manual and automatic winding. Not sure why you’d want to, but it’s still cool. All of that is set in a tactile case that you’re probably imagining on your wrist right now. Well, if you ever do get a chance to try it on, take it.

Price and Specs:

Model: Vanguart Orb
Case: 41mm diameter x 10.5mm thickness, titanium or 18k rose gold and titanium
Dial: Skeletonised
Movement: Vanguart automatic calibre, 35 jewels, 395 parts
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 60h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, tourbillon
Strap: Rubber or leather
Price: CHF 50,000 (approx. £44,180) in titanium and CHF 180,000 (approx. £155,000) in rose gold and titanium

More details at Vanguart.

Marathon Jeep Rubicon GSAR

Marathon Jeep Rubicon GSAR

For something a little more down-to-earth, look no further than the military-themed collab we didn’t know we needed: Marathon and Jeep. Both have rugged chops honed in conflict and both offer the kind of go-anywhere-do-anything outlook that makes for a perfect beater. There are two pieces in the collab, but our pick would be the Marathon Jeep Rubicon GSAR, an underwater beast inspired by the design of the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon.

The Marathon Jeep Rubicon GSAR is 41mm of gloriously over-machined intensity with 300m water resistance and all the bells and whistles you need from a professional diver – all dressed up in Jeep-esque style and H3 gas tubes and MaraGlo as bright as any headlight. Indoor kids need not apply.

Price and Specs:

Model: Marathon Jeep Rubicon GSAR
Case: 41mm diameter x 17.2mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Black
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW200-1, automatic, 26 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Rubber
Price: $1,500 (approx. £1,200)

More details at Marathon.

Behrens Kung Fu Platinum Edition

Behrens Kung Fu Platinum Edition

Anything with the name Kung Fu needs to have some serious aesthetic punch and the latest from Behrens certainly has that. A collaboration with independent master watchmaker Qian Guobiao, the dial is ostensibly inspired by ancient square-holed coins of the Qin Dynasty, while the hands are the bolts of ancient crossbows, all nods to ancient Chinese heritage. That said, it’s not what you’d call ‘traditional’ in any sense, using a novel hanging balance cock to keep everything level and a sleek, pared-back approach to finishing that makes the Kung Fu a fantastic looking modern timepiece.

Price and Specs:

Model: Behrens Kung Fu Platinum Edition
Case: 39.5mm diameter, platinum
Dial: Light grey
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Behrens calibre BM03, manual winding
Functions: Hours, minutes, power reserve
Strap: Rubber
Price: $28,500 (approx. £23,000), limited to 9 pieces

More details at Behrens.

Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer 39

Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer 39

A revamp of the 44mm GPHG winning Central Impulse Chronometer, for 2024 the master watchmaker, who was a George Daniels apprentice, shrinks down this incredible watch to just 39mm. Without getting too technical the 18% downsize means a complete overhaul for the already exceptional movement (which includes two independent escapement wheels and hands operating independently of one other) and introduces a new triggering system for the constant-force remontoirs all designed and developed in-house. As well as making the movement in house, the dials, hands, indexes are all developed at the Saint-Blaise manufacture. This is boundary-pushing watchmaking at its best and I’m still drooling over that case back.

Price and Specs:

Model: Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer 39
Ref: CIC 9016.60.302 (blue dial and white gold), CIC 9016.50.303 (grey dial and rose gold)
Case: 39mm diameter x 10.75mm thickness, 18k white or rose gold
Dial: Blue or grey
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Manual winding with dual impulse escapement, 36 jewels
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 38h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Black or brown leather
Price: CHF 136,800 (approx. £121,000)

More details at Lederer.

Yema Urban Classic

Yema Urban Classic

Having tried their hand at plenty of different sports watches over the years, French, Morteau-based watchmaker Yema is taking their in-house accessibility to dressier climes with the Urban Classic. Elegantly diminutive at 37.5mm across, its standout feature is the 1960s-inspired curved dial, most eye-catchingly in this light blue. There’s a lot to love from a properly vintage-feeling, accessible dress watch, especially when it’s this versatile and comes equipped with a superb, genuinely in-house movement. There’s no situation you can’t wear it and no situation you wouldn’t want to.

Price and Specs:

Model: Yema Urban Classic
Case: 37.5mm diameter x 9mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Circular brushed light blue with applied markers and leaf hands
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Yema calibre 2000, automatic, in-house
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Leather or stainless steel mesh bracelet
Price: £519

More details at Yema.

Guebly Chapter 1

Guebly Chapter 1

The passion project of a collector turned brand director Adnane Kerd, the Chapter 1 keeps things simple in its design while relying on high-end finishing to do the legwork. A sporty looking case carved from a single block of grade 5 titanium ensures that despite its 42mm sizing it’s feels great on the wrist, especially when paired with the ergonomic sapphire case back. The movement is developed by Olivier Mory (the man behind Yema’s micro-rotor calibre) and features an unmistakable retrograde seconds function, working in 30 second intervals to keep things dynamic on the dial. It also happens to be hand finished and look stunning when viewed through a loupe.

Price and Specs:

Model: Guebly Chapter 1
Case: 42mm diameter x 10.56mm thickness, titanium
Dial: Sunray brushed blue
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Geubly calibre 2131 (based on architecture by Olivier Mory), automatic, 35 jewels, 215 parts
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Grained calfskin leather with titanium buckle
Price: CHF 38,900 (approx. £34,400), limited to 100 pieces

More details at Geubly.

Byrne Gyro Dial Golf

Byrne Gyro Dial Golf

Relaying on their calibre 5555 movement which rotates the 12,3,6 & numerals into four positions, Byrne’s latest every changing dial incorporates a green golf aesthetic with the numerals rotating to reveal golf clubs and balls. It’s an interesting looking take on their titanium cased debut and the green colourway really stands out. Personally, I prefer the more reserved creations but it’s fun, the case shape is really nice on the wrist and the caseback view of the movement is wonderful.

Price and Specs:

Model: Byrne Gyro Dial Golf
Case: 41.7mm x 48.1mm diameter x 14.45mm thickness, titanium
Dial: Green with exposed movement main plate
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Byne calibre 5555, automatic, 42 jewels, 261 parts
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60h
Functions: Hours, minutes
Strap: Green calfskin leather with grade 5 titanium buckle
Price: CHF 25,000 (approx. £22,000), limited to 24 pieces

More details at Byrne.

Carl Suchy & Sohne Belvedere Titan

Carl Suchy and Sohne Belvedere Titan

Since their debut Waltz, Carl Suchy & Sohne have been an underrated brand, linked inextricably to their Austrian homeland but with an identity all its own. Case in point, the newest take on the chunkier Belvedere. True to the current titanium zeitgeist, the newest take cases up in the lightweight metal, pairing that signature grey tone with a matching monochromatic dial. Not that it’s aesthetically dull; the brand’s signature mix of horizontal and vertical lines allows for the kind of textural difference that highlights its nuances, complete with a travelling date window to give the whole thing more movement than you’d expect from an otherwise classic three-hander.

Price and Specs:

Model: Carl Suchy & Sohne Belvedere Titan
Case: 40.8mm diameter x 12.2mm thickness, titanium
Dial: Decorated lacquered with integrated concave flange, skeletonized Dauphine rhodium plated hands with SuperLumiNova
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Carl Suchy & Sohne calibre CSS201 (base: Dubois Dépraz DD90010), automatic, 21 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Rubber
Price: €9,900 (approx. £8,500)

More details at Carl Suchy & Sohne.

Laco Kiel Sport

Laco Kiel Sport

Best known for their militaristic fliegers, Laco’s expanding their cockpit-focused chronograph range, the Kiel.2, with a jaunt below the waves. The change is relatively simple: a unidirectional bezel. While it still has 100m water resistance, so not quite fit for professional diving, it’s still a good look that expands the range functionally. Aesthetically, the Kiel Sport also does that with a dark sandblasted case that leans on their innate utilitarian feel. It’s sleek, matte and possibly the coolest Laco for a while with a low-key monochromatic look that I’m really hoping Laco builds on further.

Price and Specs:

Model: Laco Kiel Sport
Case: 43mm diameter x 14mm thickness, dark sandblasted stainless steel
Dial: Matte black with Arabic numerals and indexes
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Laco calibre 500 (based on Sellita SW500), automatic, 25 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph
Strap: Black calf leather
Price: €2,390 (approx. £2,050)

More details at Laco.

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About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.