Whether it’s the art deco elegance of the 1920s, the jet-setting of the 1950s, or the golden age of underwater exploration in the 1960s, watches have gone through plenty of different eras – each with their own ideas of what made a good timepiece.
It’s no surprise then that some of the best-looking watches of the year have been designed through a rose-tinted archival lens, drawing from brand archives and period references to create modern updates to beloved classics. Whether they’re inspired by a specific historical model or are simply embracing retro style, here are the best heritage watches of 2026.
Rotary x MOD British Army ATP Reissue
While the Dirty Dozen are the most famous watches from WWII, the original Rotary ATP is the watch that actually put the work in. It was a British service watch that saw conflict in the early part of the war and, finally, Rotary have brought it back. At 33mm this is firmly archival in size, a diameter courtesy of its quartz movement, while its cream small-seconds dial and NATO strap combination is as authentic as these things get. At £149, it’s styled like a vintage hero, priced like an impulse buy.
Model: Rotary x MOD British Army ATP Reissue
Case/dial: 33.5mm stainless steel
Dial: Cream with small seconds
Water resistance: 100m
Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Strap: NATO strap
Price: £149
More details at Rotary.
Brew Metric Retro Dial
It’s hard to come up with a more flawlessly retro design than Brew’s signature chronograph. This is the 1970s compressed into a flavourful espresso shot of colour and shape. The 36mm size is that goldilocks point between throwback diameters and wearability, and the mix of blue, yellow and orange tastefully highlight the necessary information. There’s a reason the Metric has been heaped with design awards.
Model: Brew Metric Retro Dial
Case/dial: 36mm × 41.5mm stainless steel
Dial: Black with blue, yellow and orange retro details
Water resistance: 50m
Movement: VK68 Meca-Quartz
Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: $475 (approx. £350)
More details at Brew.
Wolbrook Skindiver 38 Automatic “Reduxed”
This is simply a pitch-perfect retro skindiver. Wolbrook have nailed the less-is-more utilitarian feel of a tool watch with the lollipop indexes and simple minute markers that match the restrained diving bezel. The compact 38mm size feels period-appropriate too, harking back to the skindiver heyday of the ’60s. Skindiver of course means it’s designed for shallow diving where you won’t have extra equipment, hence the 200m water resistance, but that also makes it a great everyday wearer, slimmer than most divers and with options for a classic tropic strap or beads of rice bracelet. It’s a very hard decision.
Model: Wolbrook Skindiver 38 'Reduxed'
Case/dial: 38mm 316L stainless steel
Dial: Black with lollipop markers
Water resistance: 200m
Movement: Miyota 9039 calibre, automatic, 28,800vph, 42-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, unidirectional diving bezel
Strap: Tropic rubber strap or beads-of-rice bracelet
Price: £447
More details at Wolbrook.
Herbelin Newport Heritage Originals
With 38.5mm of bi-colour goodness in the Newport’s distinctive, porthole-inspired case shape, this edition of Herbelin’s flagship sports watch is impossible to separate from its glamorous transatlantic sailing roots. The distinctive straight lugs keep it for even the smallest of wrists, while the yellow gold PVD and silken blue dial add the visual punch needed for some serious wrist presence. Powered by an accessible quartz movement, this is pure Herbelin in the best possible way.
Model: Herbelin Newport Heritage Originals
Case/dial: 38.5mm stainless steel with yellow gold PVD
Dial: Blue
Water resistance: 100m
Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Leather strap
Price: €550 (approx. £470)
More details at Herbelin.
KUOE Old Smith 90-007
Where the original Old Smith offered a more modern, textured take on classic military field watches, the Old Smith 90-007 goes full classicist by taking things back a decade or two to the 1930s. The elegant 35mm case is perfectly proportioned for a vintage dress watch and the clean, white, small seconds dial with blued steel hands rounds off the archival look. It’s not all ripped from the past though; the four o’clock crown stops the Old Smith 90-007 blending into the throwback crowd too much.
Model: KUOE Old Smith 90-007
Case/dial: 35mm stainless steel
Dial: White with small seconds and blued steel hands
Water resistance: 50m
Movement: Miyota 82S5 calibre, automatic, 21,600vph, 42-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Strap: Cordovan leather strap
Price: £535
More details at KUOE.
Tissot Visodate
An overdue revamp of one of Tissot’s most accessible models, the new Visodate moves forwards by looking back – specifically to the original 1954 model. An elegant 39mm case, a handsome curved dial with vertical and circular brushing and a ’50s-appropriate beads of rice bracelet all add up to one of Tissot’s best-looking models. It’s refined, sophisticated, and available in black, dark blue, or silver and no matter which you go for, this is a lot of watch for the money.
Model: Tissot Visodate
Ref: T157.407.16.031.00 (silver) / T157.407.11.051.00 (black) / T157.407.11.041.00 (blue)
Case/dial: 39mm × 10.45mm stainless steel
Dial: Silver, black, or blue
Water resistance: 50m
Movement: Powermatic 80 calibre, automatic, 21,600vph, 23 jewels, 80-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Beads-of-rice bracelet or leather strap
Price: £775
More details at Tissot.
Benrus DTU-2A/P
A good number of watch brands contributed timepieces to the Vietnam war effort – given its length and casualty count, that’s not surprising – and one of the most iconic was the Benrus DTU-2A/P. This latest from the modern brand is an authentic 34mm celebration of that original U.S. mil-spec timepiece, from the utilitarian field watch dial to the accompanying bund strap that not only looks the part but helps the relatively small diameter feel much better on larger wrists.
Model: Benrus DTU-2A/P
Ref: DTU-SS-B-034-01
Case/dial: 34mm sandblasted 316L stainless steel, screw-down crown
Dial: Black, military-style field watch layout
Water resistance: 100m
Movement: ETA 2671 calibre, automatic, 21,600vph, 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Brown leather Bund strap (NATO strap also included)
Price: CHF 892 (approx. £815)
More details at Benrus.
Certina DS Super PH2000M
Retro good looks meet distinctly modern performance in Certina’s latest 1960s-coded diver. The Original PH line was launched in the ’60s, a few years after the initial Double Security concept became a core pillar of Certina. The newest PH not only ups the water resistance to 2,000m and lowers the weight with a Grade 2 titanium case, but doubles down on shock resistance with the newest iteration of the DS concept. Pair that with the superb Powermatic 80 automatic movement – it’s a Swatch Group staple for a reason – and you have professional performance packed into an old-school handsome everyday wearer. If only it came on a Milanese bracelet…
Model: Certina DS Super PH2000M
Ref: C050.607.44.051.02
Case/dial: 43mm × 16mm Grade 2 titanium, ceramic unidirectional bezel
Dial: Blue
Water resistance: 2,000m
Movement: Powermatic 80 calibre, automatic, 21,600vph, 80-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, unidirectional diving bezel
Strap: Rubber strap
Price: £1,230
More details at Certina.
Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof
The original 1960s Alpina Tropic-Proof was a no-nonsense adventurer’s watch, built to survive far-flung rainforests and humid environments. Today, its sub-35mm case seems relatively quaint, albeit one with a clear thread linking it to Alpina’s more modern, higher spec collections. It’s ultra-legible, light weight and in the latest black dialled version, a great accessible Explorer alternative for smaller wrists.
Model: Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof
Ref: AL-480B2H6 (black) / AL-480S2H6 (silver)
Case/dial: 34mm stainless steel
Dial: Black (also available in silver)
Water resistance: 30m
Movement: Alpina AL-480 calibre, manual wind, 21,600vph, 42-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Strap: Leather strap
Price: £1,595
More details at Alpina.
Oris Star Edition
Back in the 1950s, the Swiss Watch Statute, a protectionist law, was killing innovation by locking watchmakers into existing categories. For Oris, that meant they were stuck using pin-lever escapements rather than the superior lever escapements. In 1956, they hired Dr. Rolf Portmann to get the law overturned and after battling the industry for a decade, he succeeded. The Oris Star was the result, and 60 years later the new, faithful re-issue is 35mm of vintage style, right down to the monochromatic silver crosshair dial. The only obvious nod to modernity is an updated movement – albeit one that still uses a lever escapement.
Model: Oris Star Edition
Ref: 01 733 7813 4151-Set
Case/dial: 35mm × 11mm stainless steel
Dial: Monochromatic silver with crosshair
Water resistance: 50m
Movement: Oris 733 calibre (SW200-1 base), automatic, 28,800vph, 26 jewels, 41-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Black leather strap
Price: £1,750
More details at Oris.
Favre Leuba Harpoon Revival
The Harpoon has always been an odd watch, so I’m particularly glad it has gotten a revival in Favre Leuba’s recent slate. Hailing from 1966, this is watchmaking distilled to its essentials with a clean dial, three indexes and a framed date window. At 36.8mm across, it’s diametrically opposed to the big Chief and Favre Leuba’s big, chunky tool watches in a way that’s hard not to appreciate. Would it look even better on an archival bracelet? Yes. But on a black leather strap, it might just be the brand’s most wearable modern watch.
Model: Favre Leuba Harpoon Revival
Ref: 00.20401.115.06.101
Case/dial: 36.8mm stainless steel
Dial: White with framed date window
Water resistance: 50m
Movement: FLD04 calibre, automatic, 28,800vph, 68-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Black leather strap
Price: £1,800
More details at Favre Leuba.
O&W ‘Early Bird’ EB-24
Ollech & Wajs’ ongoing slate of archival releases is beginning to make us wonder why they’re not a much bigger deal. Cool heritage divers, Vietnam military watches and now this, a 24-hour military time watch inspired by the Intelsat 1 – or Early Bird – Satellite. The original watch was released in 1965, and this modern version has the same dial layout and brightly coloured red and blue (don’t say Pepsi) second time zone bezel. No more than 500 of the original Early Bird watches were ever built, so this is a welcome update, right down to the custom SOPROD movement and dive-worthy water resistance.
Model: O&W 'Early Bird' EB-24
Case/dial: 39.5mm × 12.5mm brushed 316L stainless steel
Dial: Black with red and blue GMT bezel
Water resistance: 300m
Movement: SOPROD C-125 calibre, automatic, 28,800vph, 25 jewels, 42-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, GMT second time zone (24-hour)
Strap: Black leather strap
Price: CHF 1,956 (approx. £1,800)
More details at O&W.
Farer Racing Chronograph Libre
Racing liveries of the early 1970s were bold and bombastic, so it’s no surprise that British watchmaking’s most colour confident brand has found some synergy there. The Libre, part of their new Racing Chronograph capsule, is a rich, burgundy take on the big-eye chronograph, with the oversized three o’clock minutes emphasised with segments in three slightly different shades of wine. Finished with dramatically sloping lugs and vintage mushroom chronograph pushers, this is a trackside necessity at the next classic car meet.
Model: Farer Racing Chronograph Libre
Case/dial: 38.5mm × 13.4mm stainless steel
Dial: Burgundy with wine-tone sub-registers
Water resistance: 100m
Movement: Sellita SW510M b calibre, manual wind, 28,800vph, 23 jewels, 63-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
Strap: Burgundy leather strap
Price: £1,875
More details at Farer.
Vertex M36 Pressure Edition
The M36 is arguably the most authentic homage to the Dirty Dozen around, so it’s no surprise that it has a starring role in upcoming D-Day film, Pressure. The film, starring Andrew Scott and Brendan Fraser, follows the vital weather forecast ahead of Operation Overlord. This limited edition celebrates the film by giving the handsome M36 Desert edition a stamped caseback showing the weather forecast for D-Day. It’s a subtle nod to the film that doesn’t impact the innate wearability of the 36mm field watch. But if you want something more overt, it also comes in a limited-edition presentation box.
Model: Vertex M36 Pressure Edition
Case/dial: 36mm stainless steel
Dial: Desert sand
Water resistance: 100m
Movement: Sellita SW260-1 calibre, automatic, 28,800vph, 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Canvas strap
Price: £2,150
More details at Vertex.
Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20
By day, a 1960s skindiver with a slim bezel, wearable 39mm diameter and slim 9.90mm thickness, and period-appropriate trapezoid indexes. By night, a ghostly glowing light in the underwater darkness. It’s not often archival dive watches get the full lume treatment and Yema’s limited edition has us wondering why. It still has all the hallmarks of their classic civilian tool watches but in a way that you won’t have seen in its original era. That said, this is one you might not want to keep on your bedside table unless you still need a nightlight.
Model: Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20
Ref: 12.26.20.67.SNL.U7
Case/dial: 39mm × 9.90mm stainless steel
Dial: Full Super-LumiNova
Water resistance: 300m
Movement: Yema CMM.20 calibre, automatic, 28,800vph, 70-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, unidirectional diving bezel
Strap: Rubber strap
Price: £2,220
More details at Yema.
Vulcain Cricket President
The original Cricket is an iconic watch in the truest sense. Not only was its novel alarm complication inspired, but it was adopted by some impressive wearers over the years – including U.S. presidents Harry S. Truman, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Lyndon B. Johnson, and Richard Nixon. The Cricket President is the modern heir to that legacy, using the same vibrating alarm and here in a pale salmon colour that, while not authentically vintage, does have a certain rose-tinted glamour. And that alarm? Still incredibly fun to use.
Model: Vulcain Cricket President
Ref: 100172A80.BAC301
Case/dial: 36mm stainless steel
Dial: Pale salmon
Water resistance: 50m
Movement: Vulcain V10 Cricket calibre, manual wind, 18,000vph, 25 jewels, 52-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, centre seconds, alarm
Strap: Leather strap
Price: £3,450
More details at Vulcain.
Doxa SUB 200 T.GRAPH II
A funky reinterpretation of Doxa’s first dive chronograph, the SUB 200 T.GRAPH II has that classic Doxa silhouette with distinctive bicompax chronograph subdials, with flashes of yellow on the three o’clock 30-minute counter. While orange is the classic Doxa look, those flashes of yellow look great on the blue Caribbean version, which still has plenty of orange across the stainless steel diving bezel and handset. Finish it off with a beads of rice bracelet and you’re all set for some reef diving in the Indian Ocean, Cousteau style.
Model: Doxa SUB 200 T.GRAPH II
Case/dial: 42mm × 14.6mm stainless steel
Dial: Blue Caribbean with orange and yellow accents
Water resistance: 200m
Movement: Sellita SW510 calibre, automatic, 28,800vph, 56-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date
Strap: Beads-of-rice stainless steel bracelet
Price: £3,690
More details at Doxa.
Sherpa Ultradive “Tuxedo”
The modern incarnation of the legendary Enicar brand, Sherpa’s latest Ultradive takes the practical style of the early dual-crown compressor – complete with an actual bayonet caseback – and dresses it up. Still, the tuxedo dial with its silver main dial and black rotating inner bezel and red date don’t quite help the 40mm case with its chunky crown guard double as a dress watch. It does however make for a sleek, ultra-legible dial that stands out from the host of Submariner lookalikes out there. You don’t even need the prayer-inscribed Mantramatic movement inside to get good vibes from it.
Model: Sherpa Ultradive 'Tuxedo'
Ref: 002/01/01
Case/dial: 40mm × 13.5mm stainless steel, compressor-style with crown guards and bayonet caseback
Dial: Silver with black rotating inner bezel
Water resistance: 200m
Movement: Mantramatic MM01 calibre, automatic, 28,800vph, 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Tropic rubber strap
Price: €6,500 (approx. £5,565)
More details at Sherpa.
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical
Yes, there have been enough Revival models now to diffuse the name a little, but that hasn’t stopped each one offering a pitch-perfect archival silhouette. In the latest edition however, Zenith is playing on the collector catnip that is tropical dials. Rather than letting the new dial fade over time however, Zenith have opted for a similar white and brown colourway that evokes rather than replicates those faded vintage colours. With the sub-collection’s striking 37mm case and ladder bracelet, this might well be the best modern Chronomaster Revival yet.
Model: Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical
Ref: 03.A384.400/69.M384
Case/dial: 37mm stainless steel
Dial: Tropical-inspired white and brown
Water resistance: 50m
Movement: El Primero 400 calibre, automatic, 36,000vph, 31 jewels, 50-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, date
Strap: Stainless steel ladder bracelet
Price: £8,700
More details at Zenith.
Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni
Pretty much everything in Panerai’s modern collection has a strong connection to those early 1940s Italian frogman watches. But the latest Luminor 8 Giorni ties that heritage in more visually than most with a perfectly pre-worn Brunito finish. And while the eight-day power reserve is distinctly modern, long power reserves are still very much a Panerai thing, harking back to the old Angelus SF240 calibre of the mid-50s. Put this on some chunky aged leather embrace that uncompromising vintage military look.
Model: Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni
Ref: PAM01733
Case/dial: 44mm Brunito-treated steel
Dial: Brown sandblasted
Water resistance: 300m
Movement: Panerai P.5000 calibre, manual wind, 21,600vph, 21 jewels, 192-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Strap: Brown calfskin leather strap
Price: £9,500
More details at Panerai.
