China’s mixed reputation in watchmaking circles is well documented at this point where on the one hand you have countless cheap, low quality watches and on the other, there are brands really striving to elevate the industry with cutting edge ideas and creations. Leading the charge for the latter are brands like Behrens, who today announce their first partnership with Swiss watchmaking master Vianney Halter. Together producing the Behrens Master Collection KWH x Vianney Halter limited edition, which we have been hands-on with at Geneva Watch Days.
The new watch, available in white gold with purple accents or as we see here rose gold with grey accents, is inspired by antique electricity meters. That’s where the model gets its name from, KWH standing for kilowatt-hours, a calculation of energy used by an appliance or household. The reason for this is that during a visit to Vianney Halter’s workshop, the Behrens founder discovered that they both own similar antique devices.
This electricity meter concept is expressed through the shape of the case, which is rectangular and measures 35mm x 41mm x 10.9mm. The power reserve indicator and day/night indicator are also presented in the form of revolving cylinders at 8 o’clock, mirrored at 4 o’clock by the rotating minutes display – these echo the circular components and displays seen in some vintage electricity meters.
However, if the minutes, power reserve and day/night indicator are presented via cylinder and there are no central hands, where is the hours indicator? There is actually a chain track around the periphery of the watch that rotates around the edge of the display and on that track are seven larger studs which serve as a style of orbital hand. In these pictures you can see them between 2 and 3 o’clock. The reason for this is that since the case is inspired by a piece of retro electronic technology, the time display should be as well, and so they landed on the concept of Snake. Everyone’s favourite retro video game. In turn, now that retro games are on the table conceptually, the packaging is based on Tetris.
Turning the Master Collection KWH Limited Edition x Vianney Halter over and viewing the exhibition caseback reveals that there are more complications to be discovered on the rear of the watch. At 12 o’clock you can see a combined moonphase and date disc. You can also see the back sides of the cylinder displays. As a manual winding movement, there is no rotor to obscure the view and the watch’s many jewels. There are a whopping 170 jewels in this calibre, which is called the BM06, alongside a huge 870 components. That’s more than most grand complications.
The reason for this is that each link of the chain hours mechanism is made from multiple components with a jewel at its centre. This is to reduce friction as it moves and ensure a consistent motion. At the same time the movement incorporates a temperature-compensation adjustment system in order to ensure consistent operation in a variety of environmental conditions.
Given the complexity of the movement and the precious metal cases, it’s little surprise that the Master Collection KWH Limited Edition x Vianney Halter is priced at $44,800 (approx. £33,300). Both colours are also limited to just 9 pieces each. With their interesting designs, complex mechanisms and now a collaboration with one of the modern Swiss greats, it’s impossible to regard Behrens as anything other than a serious player on the global horological stage.
Price and Specs:
More details at Behrens.
Sorry, I’m about to be controversial again.
Beauty, as they say, is in the eye of the beholder, but that is not the word I would personally use to describe this watch (is it actually a watch, – it’s almost impossible to read the time on this creation of cogs and wheels). So, as you can guess, this is not one for me, and, at circa £33k it never would be.
Again, a personal observation, I don’t understand the latest trend for white gold or platinum on watches, other than makers dreaming up another reason to get the very wealthy to part with even more money than their commonsense would normally allow – they still look like Stainless Steel, so a case of “The Emperors New Clothes” – just saying! At least with traditional gold (yellow, red or rose), the difference is noticeable.
That’s beautiful and quite unique. I’m just personnaly disapointed that it’s priced like a fully swiss watch, but maybe not, I suppose a big brand would ask 2 or 3 times more for this complexity.