BA111OD are a chameleonic watch brand. They rarely stick to one style or aesthetic and can adapt and change to the shifting watch industry around them. You want accessible haute horology? They have the Chapter 4 Tourbillon. Skeleton watch? Chapter 3. Colourful and sporty? Chapter 7. What space does that leave them to explore next? What will Chapter 8 hold? Answer, Chapter 8 is actually two designs, one of which is an Art Deco three-hand homage and the other a delightfully off-kilter moonphase.
Chapter 8 Three Hands
The reason both the Three Hand and Moonphase are part of the same chapter is because they share the same case, a 42mm x 12.75mm stainless steel piece with a smooth, round design and gently curved lugs. It has a concave bezel with polished finish and a crown located at 4 o’clock. When it comes to the Three Hand in particular, one of its four references is also available with a gold PVD coated finish.
The Three Hand features a 1920s inspired Art Deco sector dial in a choice of black, beige or silver-white, with the latter being the version available in plain steel or Carnation gold. It’s a very nice dial with a central grained disc and smooth outer sector with separate hour and minute scales. There are also metallic hour markers at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock, balanced at 3 by the date window.
My one critique of the design is that it doesn’t feel particularly original. We’ve seen a lot of sector designs recently with the relaunch of the Biver Carillon and I can’t escape the fact that Furlan Marri have already tackled the concept of an accessible sector design with the Sector (it’s right there in the name of the watch). Considering that originality is one of BA111OD’s strengths, just doing ‘their version’ of a popular design doesn’t really fit. To me, it’s a little bit too much following the trend instead of setting it.
On the positive side, if you’re looking for an accessible Art Deco watch, this should jump to near the top of your wish list. With prices starting from CHF 595 (approx. £550) it’s a very attractive entry-level option, offering that characteristic Swiss-made accessibility BA111OD pride themselves on, complete with a Soprod P024 movement.
Price and Specs:
Chapter 8 Moonphase
In comparison to the Three Hand, the Moonphase feels much more in line with what I expect from BA111OD, a little bit quirky and more creative. It features the same Chapter 8 case as the Three Hand but the dial is completely different. Gone is the sector display and in its place is an asymmetric design with a cool grainy finish in a choice of grey, beige or silver-white. The titular moonphase is positioned at 10 o’clock while the small seconds are at 7 and the date window is at 4 with the numerals twisted to be in line with the adjacent hour marker instead of horizontal.
The finishing on the small seconds in particular stands out to me with its circular brushing. It’s not the ultra-refined, regular brushing we’re used to seeing, instead having a slightly rough, irregular texture to it. It reminds me of timelapses of stars wheeling overhead in the night, which is apt given that this is a moonphase.
I really like the grey dial version with its black accents and piercing red seconds hand. The combination of the red and black reminds me of an obscure watch called the Allemano Man though I can’t quite put my finger on why that watch in particular springs to mind. I think it must be because the Allemano also has a slightly unusual display with its oversize power reserve indicator occupying a large portion of the dial. So, it has a similar amount of novelty to its design as the BA111OD Chapter 8 Moonphase.
Powering the Chapter 8 Moonphase is the Soprod C105 automatic movement. It’s a little higher spec than the three hand versions with a slightly higher 42-hour power reserve. Though that is reflected in the price, which is almost double at CHF 1110 (approx. £1,025). Given the addition of multiple extra complications and an overall more interesting design, I think that’s worth it. I don’t mind the idea of a classical BA111OD, but it should still be exciting.
Price and Specs:
More details at BA111OD.
Yes, it’s a sector dial watch, but nothing wrong with that. Yes, quite a few other makes use a similar format, but that is due to it’s classic format, which will be unlikely to date, but I don’t think it’s fair to compare it to a Biver, after all, there is a hugh difference in many areas (the first area that springs to mind is the cost), so this Chapter 8 should be viewed on its own merits and price tag.
I’m personally not a fan of moon phase watches so will not dwell on those variants, but concentrate on the 3 hand versions available. All fall into the category of “art Deco” styling (which is a particular favourite of mine), so no negatives from me. They are all very lovely looking watches, so hard to find any negatives. Looking at the makers website for more details, I have to say that I really surprised myself, I have previously commented on the fact that IMO, gold bracelet watches generally look naff and a bit “Del-boy”, but this gold coloured PVD is my personal favourite, I think that is down to the semi Milanese band (non integrated), and the colour of the “gold”, which is not too flashy. My only other point of input, is that they should make this available with the beige dial, now that would really look the business.
Hit the link and you will see that all versions are currently available with a discount, what is there not to like about these watches.
If they want to try a one-off version with the beige dial on the PVD gold coloured Milanese, then I am the man to trial it.
Final conclusion, lovely watches.