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Audemars Piguet’s New Watches for 2023 Include a Turquoise Royal Oak

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 023

Last year Audemars Piguet was celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, which meant their early 2022 launches were somewhat obliged to be classic tributes to the design. This year, they have no such theme driving their release slate and as such, Audemars Piguet’s new watches for 2023 are a real smorgasbord of styles and concepts. From a tiffany-coloured Royal Oak to a full ceramic Offshore and steel Code 11.59s, let’s get into it.

Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm Yellow Gold Turquoise Dial

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Yellow Gold and Turquoise

Who started watchmaking’s current turquoise trend? Rolex introduced their tiffany blue Oyster Perpetual in 2020 but it wasn’t until December 2021 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus Tiffany that the rest of the watch world really started to pay attention. Whichever way you slice it, Audemars Piguet are late to the turquoise train with the new 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Yellow Gold and Turquoise.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Yellow Gold and Turquoise

However, that’s not to say that the watch doesn’t have any merit because it does do some interesting things from a style point of view. For one, the combination of the pale blue dial with a yellow gold case is very uncommon. This kind of blue typically features in steel or white gold watches because the cold tones complement each other, here there’s a contrast between the cold dial and warm gold.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Yellow Gold and Turquoise

On top of that, this isn’t just a dial painted blue, it’s made from actual turquoise stone, which is why there’s a natural rock vein pattern faintly visible. Between the contrasting tones and the precious stone dial, the watch has a faint Aztec jewellery aesthetic that feels unique in Swiss watchmaking.

Price & Specs

  • Ref: 15550BA.OO. 1356BA.01|
  • Case/dial: 37mm diameter x 8.9mm thickness, 18k yellow gold case, natural turquoise dial|
  • Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)|
  • Movement: AP calibre 5900, automatic, 29 jewels, 186 parts|
  • Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 60h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds|
  • Strap: 18k yellow gold bracelet|
  • Price/availability: £52,800

Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph Black Ceramic

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph Black Ceramic

The Royal Oak Offshore, the robust diving version of the RO, was first introduced in 1993, making 2023 the collection’s 30th anniversary. Considering how large the celebrations of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary were last year, it’s somewhat surprising there’s no hint of celebration here, not so much as a mention in the watch’s name or a commemorative rotor.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph Black Ceramic

Instead, it introduces a full black ceramic case to the Offshore for the first time. Ceramic is an incredibly durable and scratch resistant material, ideal for a diving watch where bumps and scrapes are inevitable. The broad surfaces of the RO also highlight the material’s smoothness and the new, inky black colourway. Although, some definition has been maintained by using white gold decorative screws and white Arabic numerals across the chronograph’s various subdials.

Price & Specs

  • Ref: 26238CE.OO.1300CE.01|
  • Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 15.3mm thickness, black ceramic case, black Petite Tapisserie patterned dial|
  • Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)|
  • Movement: AP calibre 4404, automatic, 40 jewels, 433 parts|
  • Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 70h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph|
  • Strap: Black ceramic bracelet with titanium AP folding clasp|
  • Price/availability: £72,500

Royal Oak Extra-Thin “Jumbo” Blue Grained Dial

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra Thin Jumbo Blue Grained Dial

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra Thin Jumbo Blue Grained Dial

Following on from last year’s “Jumbo” releases, Audemars Piguet have launched a new limited edition version that will be a boutique exclusive. It has a 39mm diameter case in white gold housing the Calibre 7121, which was introduced last year. However, what’s more interesting is the dial featuring a dark blue colouration and a grained texture. AP have been experimenting with texture quite a lot recently with watches like the dimpled dial tourbillon, exploring alternatives to their signature Tapisserie motif.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra Thin Jumbo Blue Grained Dial

However, grained dials have a history in the Royal Oak collection dating back to 1992 and the 20th anniversary edition in platinum. For this version, they’ve revised their grained dial technique to create a finer, brighter style using PVD and a translucent coating that enhances the way light interacts with the dial to accentuate the relief and brilliance.

Price & Specs

  • Ref: 16202BC.OO.1240BC.02|
  • Case/dial: 49mm diameter x 8.1mm thickness, 18k white gold case, blue grained dial|
  • Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)|
  • Movement: AP calibre 7121, automatic, 33 jewels, 268 parts|
  • Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 55h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, date|
  • Strap: 18k white gold bracelet|
  • Price/availability: £67,300

Code 11.59 Stainless Steel Collection

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Stainless Steel Smoked Beige

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Stainless Steel Cronograph Green

Alongside the three new Royal Oaks, Audemars Piguet’s new watches for 2023 include six new Code 11.59 references. It’s the first time that they’ve ever been presented in stainless steel, which is a major shift for the range. Traditionally the Code 11.59 has rode a line between haute horology and extraordinary decorative designs, hence a predilection towards gold and high tech material cases. Steel is quite the change of pace.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Stainless Steel Blue

The new collection consists of three time and date watches and three chronographs, one each in blue, khaki and green. They also feature a brand new dial pattern made of concentric circles that gives the pieces a ripple aesthetic. In addition to these new releases, AP have expanded several collections with alternative colourways and haute jewellery editions, you can check out the full range at their website

Price & Specs

  • Ref: 15210ST.OO.A348KB.0 (blue), 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 (green), 15210QT.OO.A064KB.01 (beige), 26393ST.OO.A348KB.01 (blue chronograph), 26393ST.OO.A056KB.01 (green chronograph), 26393QT.OO.A064KB.01 (beige chronograph)|
  • Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 10.7mm thickness, stainless steel case, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50″, green or smoked beige dial|
  • Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)|
  • Movement: AP calibre 4302, automatic, 32 jewels, 257 parts and AP calibre 4401, automatic, 40 jewels, 381 parts (chronograph)|
  • Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 70h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date|
  • Strap: Blue/green/beige leather|
  • Price/availability: £21,800 (blue/green), £23,900 (beige), £30,100 (blue/green chronograph) or £32,100 (beige chronograph)

More details at Audemars Piguet.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.

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