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In Focus: Briston Watches

Brice Jaunet knows a thing or two about watches. Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil and Zenith – his 15-year horological career is nothing if not impressive. But simply being successful apparently wasn’t enough; Brice wanted that success on his own terms. So, in 2012 he brought his decade-and-a-half of expertise to bear on a new project: Briston Watches.

It might come as a surprise at first glance that Briston is in fact a French brand; there’s an innate sense of Britishness that comes from its designs that many a home-grown watchmaker should be jealous of, a preppy sensibility that defines their watches.

The reason for that is a personal one to Brice, as he himself studied at Oxford University. He was part of that cricket-playing, aristocrat-baiting lifestyle that not only exudes old-world charm, but went on to define the Ivy League style of the East Coast. It’s a kind of sports chic that’s hard to define any other way.

Briston Clubmaster Traveler Worldtime

Briston Clubmaster Traveler Worldtime, €1,300

While in wardrobes that style appears as polo shirts, chinos and knits, for Briston it means classical, cushion-cased watches with a pleasingly chunky, sporty feel. The Clubmaster shape walks that thin line between elegance and practicality, with a generous dose of vintage, 1950s watchmaking thrown in.

Like an anglicised Panerai, no Briston watch really ventures away from that case shape. Instead, it lays the aesthetic groundwork for a series of different dial layouts and complications, the latest and perhaps most apt of which is the Clubmaster Traveler (that’s not a typo, there is indeed one ‘L’) Worldtime.

Briston Clubmaster

Clubmaster Diver Pro Acétate, €650

What self-respecting Oxbridge Alumnus doesn’t regularly find themselves trotting across the globe? Again using the same Clubmaster cushion case, measuring in at 42mm, the watch lends itself to the two-crown worldtimer layout with its rotating day-night inner bezel. While a little on the crowded side, there’s a quirkiness to the dial that suits the style perfectly. But that’s not where the quirk stops, at least not in our favourite of the new models.

There’s a good chance you wear acetate somewhere or other, though most likely on your face in a nice pair of glasses. On your wrist? Not so much. Yet if you’re the kind of Oliver Peoples-wearing optical classicist that might opt for tortoiseshell, then Briston’s acetate-cased, British racing green-dialled Worldtimer might just be your perfect watch.

Briston Clubmaster Traveler Worldtime

Of course, a decent watch should always strive to have a decent movement, especially when the founder is intimate with the Swiss watch industry. That’s why the automatic watches in Briston’s collection opt for Sellita numbers; in this particular case, the SW330-1, arguably the best value-for-money Swiss movements around.

Indeed, despite catering to the esteemed halls of learning that many a world leader or ambassador has strolled through, Briston watches are eminently affordable. The funky fusion of classical and modern that is the Clubmaster Traveler Worldtime comes in at just €1,300 or, in proper money, just over £1,150. That’s a good deal less than a year’s tuition at Oxford, Cambridge or, let’s be honest, any British university. Preppy style without the prices; what’s not to love?

More details at Briston Watches.

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About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.