Though only 24 years on this planet, James Dean’s style has become immortal
There are various schools of thought on what defines vintage. One, in simplified terms, deems anything that is considered ‘old’ can be branded vintage. But at what age can something truly be described as vintage and hold power with the traditionalists?
Even if there was some clear point, an event horizon that said ‘if this is 50 years old it’s vintage’ that’s only part of it. Nobody expects anything Primark to be called vintage in half a century. It goes to show that not everything can be considered vintage.
If you were being sartorially pretentious (as I very much am) you can compare vintage to wine. In the same way wine has good vintages, style has the same. Granted we tend to call them ‘golden eras’ or something along those lines, but the thinking is the same. Not all years are styled equal. Fortunately for us, there’s enough gold in our collective stylistic past that cultivating your own style can be like a best of vintage – especially if we take old school Hollywood into account.
You’ll most likely be familiar with imagery of some of Hollywood’s greatest actors from the golden era of the Silver Screen between 1930’s-1960’s, where nearly everything worn on and off screen was of exquisite taste. Seriously, they were killing it and can certainly teach us a few things about style.
Effortlessly cool, they managed to combine simple yet effective looks that have stood the test of time. These icons left such a visual impression that stills from their movies, or photographs of them in social settings are still inspiration for the discerning gent – and more than one fashion designer’s studio wall.
Think Cary Grant in Hitchcock’s To Catch A Thief and An Affair to Remember. His effortless slant on both smart and casual was as debonair as it comes. Hollywood’s definitive leading man is the paragon of well-dressed in the traditional sense. In an old article for GQ he described his own style as “undisturbing, easy and comfortable,” something we can all appreciate.
In fact, emulating Grant isn’t all that hard; think tailoring without too severe a structure, well-fitting but not necessarily too fitted. Just head to Savile Row or – if you don’t want to splash the cash on that level of bespoke – British brands like Chester Barrie or even Hackett. It’s the kind of style you can pull off most working days. Oh, he also loved some classic knitwear, but you can find that wherever you look.
The impact that Hollywood has had over the years in terms of propelling stylist influences to the mainstream has been immense.
For serious events though, when you want to step things up a notched lapel or two, look no further than Humphrey Bogart. He’s the man to look up to when it comes to dressing to impress. ‘In a Lonely Place’ saw him barely remove his thick bow tie, and in the Maltese Falcon he somehow investigated the archetypal Maguffin in a power-play double-breasted suit. Yet it’s his white tux a la Casablanca that has really stood the test of time.
Yes it helps that he’s one of the most suave men to have ever lived, but by god does he make that white jacket work. You need a lot of confidence to pull it off, but you can’t help but feel like the biggest deal in the room whilst wearing it. Think anywhere from Officine Generale to Lanvin and you won’t go far wrong; just remember to keep everything else reserved.
Humphrey Bogart in The Maltese Falcon
Then there’s the rebel, the cultural icon, the symbol of teenage disillusionment that was James Dean. In him the lines between smart and casual were blurred, rebellious without straying into dishevelment. He was of course famous for his long overcoat, and you can get a modern equivalent from Burberry or Private White VC, but we’re more interested in A Rebel Without a Cause.
This brooding Hollywood sex symbol has been immortalised by his casual yet oh so cool style
It’s a simple look but one you’ll still see plenty of today, part teen angst part college-era Americana. The key part is that iconic red Harrington jacket and you can match the look with pretty much any good bomber, so long as you pair it with jeans, a crisp white tee and Dr. Martens. It doesn’t matter whether you dress casually or like every day is a Bond film casino scene; it doesn’t matter whether you long to buy real vintage or are happy with the modern-day, inspired-by equivalents; the only thing that matters is that you can learn some serious sartorial lessons from the past. Hollywood’s golden age may be done and dusted – and given the past few months of revelations it deserves it – but the styles most definitely are not.
The Vintage Showroom
If you do insist on buying vintage rather than the contemporary equivalents, you need a specialist. After all, finding decades-old clothes in decent condition is no mean feat and some of the brands will have simply disappeared. So, head down to the aptly-named Vintage Showroom. At their Seven Dials store on 14 Earlham Street you’ll find an extensive archive to appease any aficionado. Just remember, if you like the look but it doesn’t quite fit, you can always get it altered – it might be your only chance.
