It has been a hot minute since H. Moser & Cie. has launched a new watch in their Heritage collection. The last addition to the range was more than half a decade ago with 2021’s Heritage Dual Time in burgundy. Now though, the Heritage Chronograph White Fumé and Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé are being introduced to the range. Bringing with them a fresh complication and a new colourway.
H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Chronograph White Fumé
H. Moser are no strangers to chronographs, but this is the first one to be presented in the Heritage collection. It’s inspired by vintage Moser chronographs from the mid-20th century – the same watches that formed the basis for their 2024 collaboration with Massena LAB. It’s a classic expression of a chronograph with a 42mm case in steel and a thickness of 13.8mm, giving it tool watch proportions that make it practical to use as a timing device. It’s also classical in addition to classic with retro pushers, wire lugs and a squashed onion crown.
The dial is similarly retro with a sharp, angular typeface for the Arabic numerals across the hour, minute, and tachymeter scales. It uses a bi-compax layout with subdials for running seconds at 3 o’clock and a 45-minute counter at 9 o’clock. Each of the scales and hands is presented in bright blue against a backdrop of a sunray brushed white fumé base. It’s a relatively subtle degradé gradient that fades from white to silver-grey rather than a strong, smoky black, but that feels appropriate for the design.
Inside is the H. Moser HMC 220 manufacture calibre equipped with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module. It’s automatic with a 72-hour power reserve, which is pretty high for a chronograph calibre. The calibre is visible through the exhibition caseback where you can see its immaculate finishing, open worked rotor and Straumann® hairspring in the balance wheel.
The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Chronograph White Fumé is priced at £29,700 in a limited edition of 100 pieces. It’s presented on a grey kudu leather strap.
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H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé
Second in the new Heritage duo is the H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé. It’s essentially a re-colour of 2019’s Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing since it has been so long since the range has been expanded. The new watch shares the same case, measuring 42mm x 11.1mm in steel with slim wire lugs attached to a kudu leather strap.
The major update is the dial colour which is a warm espresso brown fumé. A second change is the swap from a white H. Moser logo below 12 o’clock to a transparent lacquer one instead, which makes it appear like a ghost across the display. The display is completed by globolight numerals that shine in low light conditions.
Powering it is the HMC 200 calibre with 72-hour power reserve. A no-fuss three-hand movement that’s beautifully finished with a combination of perlage and H. Moser’s signature double striped Côtes de Genève. Limited to 200 pieces at £16,000.
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More details at H. Moser & Cie.
