For the first time in the history of the America’s Cup, the legendary yacht race is coming to Italy for the 2027 season, in Naples. One of the favourites to potentially win event is the Italian team Luna Rossa, who you might recognise from their various collaboration watches with fellow Italian brand Panerai since they began their partnership in 2019. Considering that the Italian racing team is set to compete in the first Italian America’s Cup with their Italian watch sponsor, it’s little surprise that Panerai are releasing two special edition watches ahead of the event: the Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono PAM01768 and Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa GMT PAM01791.
Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono PAM01768
Starting with the chronograph model, the Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Chronograph PAM01768 measures 44mm in diameter with a steel construction and 100m water resistance. It maintains the Luminor’s signature cushion shape with Panerai’s crown locking system at 3 o’clock, which means the chronograph pushers are located at 8 and 10 o’clock instead of their usual positions at 2 and 4. 100m water resistance might seem a little low for a watch heavily themed around maritime use, but it’s a watch designed to stay on the boat, not in the water.
For the chronograph function, the watch is equipped with a central 60-second timer and a 30-minute chronograph subdial at 3 o’clock, which is balanced on the display by the running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. Both subdials are finished with engraved concentric circles, which is a finishing technique called azurage. Around the edge of the display on the watch’s flange is a tachymeter scale, which allows the wearer to calculate their average speed over a known distance, useful for ensuring that you’re maintaining an appropriate pace across the course of a regatta.
The dial itself is silver with a sunray brushed finish, matching the colour of the steel case. It gives the watch an almost industrial quality with the only interruption to the monochrome aesthetic being the bright red chronograph hands. Although even if the hands were all the same colour, I would still hesitate to call it a fully industrial vibe because the sunray brushing and polished bezel do give the Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono PAM01768 a sense of elegance and refinement.
Inside the watch is the P.9210 automatic calibre with 42-hour power reserve. It’s protected by a solid steel caseback that bear’s the watch’s limited edition number out of the 500 that are being produced.
The Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono PAM01768 is priced at £9,700 and comes with two strap options. The first is a standard rubber number familiar to the Luminor and Luna Rossa collection while the second is a Velcro strap, the first time a strap like this has been used in the collaboration series. It’s designed to be quickly adjustable at a moment’s notice while remaining secure, ideal for fast changing race environments.
Price and Specs:
Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa GMT PAM01791
Next is the Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa GMT PAM01791, which is less of a racing watch and more of a traveller’s timepiece. It’s designed to accompany you to Italy as you spectate the races from the shoreline rather than participate. To that end, it uses a 40mm Luminor case as its base, improving its wearability compared to the larger 44mm chrono. Additionally, this is the first Luna Rossa model to be presented on a steel bracelet – with the bracelet being more of a stylish choice rather than a performance focussed rubber or fabric number.
For the watch’s display, it follows the same principles as the Chrono model above. That means a sunray brushed silver dial with an azurage subdial for the small seconds. However, instead of the chronograph functions it’s equipped with a 12-hour GMT hand. The tip of the GMT hand is shaped after the sails on the Luna Rossa yacht. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock which is a natural pairing with a GMT complication, useful if you happen to travel across the international date line.
Powering this watch is the calibre P.900/GMT, which has a 3-day power reserve. Additionally, on this model the movement is visible through the exhibition caseback, giving a view of the inner workings of the calibre and its partially skeletonised, brushed rotor.
Unlike the chronograph, the Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa GMT PAM01791 is not a limited edition, joining the existing Luna Rossa GMT PAM1404 in blue as part of the permanent collection. It’s priced at £9,600, which is £900 higher than the PAM1404 due to the addition of the steel bracelet.
Ultimately, both the chronograph and GMT are relatively understated re-colours of existing Luminor models, so this isn’t the craziest Panerai launch of the year – not by a long shot with their 31 Giorni from the spring. However, I do still like the metallic, silver-dial update and the addition of new strap or bracelet options to both versions means that they do offer something new in comparison to older reference. If you plan to visit Naples in 2027, I can’t think of a better wrist companion.
Price and Specs:
More details at Panerai.
