As the higher-end arm of Orient’s watchmaking, Orient Star’s always been an odd proposition to me. They seem to feel the need to justify their higher positioning with open hearts, skeletonization and their signature power reserve indicators. But honestly, the value and finishing make me wish they’d just take it back a step.
Well, for their 75th anniversary they’ve done just that with a pair of new limited editions, one standing by itself, the other spearheading a new look for a classic collection. So, let’s take a look at the Orient Star Contemporary Date and Orient Star M34 F8 Date Meteorite.
Orient Star Contemporary Date 75th Anniversary
The new collection didn’t come out of nowhere; Orient Star are celebrating their 75th anniversary but, rather than release some gaudy gold limited edition, they’ve taken the opportunity to highlight why lovers of accessible watchmaking should know the name.
The bones here are the same as the previous contemporary date. That means a versatile 38.5mm case with sharp, faceted lugs and a classic go anywhere, do anything casual elegance with 100m water resistance. The indexes too are the same, with 12 and 6 o’clock picked out in Roman numerals, 3 interrupted by the date window and the rest showing off applied, faceted indexes as well done as most entry-level Swiss watchmakers. It’s very jack-of-all-trades.
The big difference here is the overhauled dials and, most importantly, the power reserve indicator. The power reserve has become a signature of the collection, not so much nestled at as dominating 12 o’clock. The three-dimensional curve of silver made an oversized statement that some collectors loved as a point of difference. I did not.
Now though, the scale has been printed only along a much smaller curve, a scale that blends much better into the dial. It means the power reserve is less of a core feature, but makes the design feel more low-key and wearable.
The same goes for the dials themselves, which swap the metallic sheen of previous Contemporary Date models for grained colours in soft purple, dark beige and, in this 75th anniversary-specific limited edition, a gradient green. Green, incidentally, is what Orient Star are calling it; in the metal it comes across much more of a blue and not quite as bright – for the better – as the brand’s own images might have you think.
Otherwise it’s business as usual for the new Orient Star Contemporary Date. That means an in-house automatic movement – the F6N43 – with 50 hours of power reserve and a workhorse accuracy of +25 / – 15 seconds a day. It’s not exactly COSC-certified but it’ll get the job done.
Normally we wouldn’t bother doing a review on a dial swap, but between the new texture, colours and the revamped power reserve, the new look is much more dramatic than ‘just’ a dial swap. Honestly, other than a few more colour options my only qualm about the new Contemporary Date is the Date. The power reserve indicator is now perfectly symmetrical, and the date window now unbalances the dial.
The new models have me genuinely interested though, which says a lot. Now if they swapped the date window for a GMT hand, it might be my new GADA watch. As it is, the new limited edition Contemporary Date 75th Anniversary model is a great watch for the £570 it’ll set you back, produced in a less-than-rare 1,200 run.
Price and Specs:
Orient Star M34 F8 Date Meteorite
Meteorite continues to be the dial material of the moment – even more so than semi-precious stones – it’s an obvious next step for the M34 F8 Date, a collection that loves unusual dials. It includes a black nanoparticle dial imitating the Millenium Falcon’s cockpit during hyperdrive, inspired by the Perseid Meteor Shower.
For their 75th anniversary however, Orient Star have taken that meteorite inspiration much more literally with a slice of Muonionalusta meteorite. Normally the metal would be darker, but here the signature Widmanstätten pattern has been brightened up with silver PVD and it makes for a great-looking watch.
I love monochrome watches, especially if they play with texture where they don’t with colour. The new M34 F8 Date is the same, matching the dial pattern in colour to the steel case and indexes. It’s a cool look, but one that could learn from the other 75th anniversary release above. That’s because the power reserve indicator carves a good chunk out of the meteorite at 12 o’clock.
The power reserve keeps the monochrome look but reminds me of a windscreen wiper cutting through an exceptionally dirty bit of glass. I don’t see why you would interrupt a meteorite dial at the best of times, but this just draws the eye to the radially grooved metal more than the crystalline meteorite texture. For me, it’s a symptom of Orient’s wider design ethos that the Bambino and new Contemporary Dates are just beginning to address.
The date I mind less, but only because it gets a little lost in the meteorite anyway. It’s small, nestled into one of the indexes and generally unobtrusive. I’d still prefer the watch without, but it’s less of an issue than on the otherwise clean Contemporary Date.
The dial’s a shame for me, firstly because it’s so close yet so far, secondly because the rest of the watch is more-than-solid. At 40mm it’s bigger than the Contemporary Date and the lugs are shorter more softly curved, so they wear about the same. It’s a versatile case that feels good on the wrist, what more could you ask for?
The movement is the F8N64, which is a dramatic upgrade on the Contemporary Date, better in every respect. It has +15 / -5 second accuracy, 60 hours of power reserve and a silicon escape wheel. This isn’t a standard, mass-produced workhorse, this is a seriously accomplished movement.
Limited to 255 pieces, this is one to get if you really love a meteorite watch with some great watchmaking behind it for less than £2,400. It’s not one I’m personally excited about, but for longtime fans of Orient who better appreciate their bold power reserves, 255 likely isn’t enough.
Price and Specs:
More details at Orient.
