As you may have been able to tell from my numerous stories on these pages over the years, vintage watches are something I find myself searching for in my spare time far more than I care to admit. Often, people assume you’re either into modern or vintage when it comes to collecting. The reality is both can not only co-exist but also thrive together in a watch box.
This realisation is by no means a phenomenon, but something that is becoming increasingly common, so are those vintage watches you just don’t see every day. Call them quirky, unusual, or for some flat out unlovable, vintage lends itself to hunting for the weird and wonderful. This side of vintage really is where I feel most at home (for those keeping track I’m now at the stage of three levels of niche with my watch collecting).
It’s not about fitting in and all about exploration to find exactly what you like, without a care for the opinions of others. And with that, here’s a selection of the most underrated, and seriously quirky, corners of vintage and neo vintage watches you should get to know.
Lip Mach 2000
image credit: Analog:Shift
No brand channelled the daring creativity of 1970s design better than LIP. While many manufacturers were scrambling to survive the advent of quartz, LIP embraced it with wild creativity. The result? Some of the most distinctive watches of the decade, including the Mach 2000 collection designed by industrial designer Roger Tallon.
You might not know Tallon by name, but you’ve likely encountered his work; he was the mind behind France’s TGV high-speed train and numerous examples of modernist furniture design. His approach to the Mach 2000 was equally avant-garde; bold primary-coloured pushers, asymmetric cases, and sculptural rubber forms that looked more like pop art than horology.
Beneath the playful surface, these watches carry solid French movements and LIP’s inventive engineering spirit. The Mach 2000 is almost an example of defiant optimism, that design and function can still evolve amid a time of industry crisis. Today, the Mach 2000 continues to attract collectors with its playful appearance, and you can still secure one for under £1,500, for now.
Pierre Cardin Espace Collection
Image credit: Francoise
Known for his futuristic and geometric styles, space age designs, and bold innovation, Pierre Cardin was a powerhouse of a designer in the 1950s, ‘60s, and ‘70s. Be it clothing, shoes, handbags, jewellery, tableware, and furniture, Cardin’s design sensibility was remarkable. If you don’t believe me, Google his house called the ‘Bubble Palace’ and you’ll see my point.
But in the early 1970s, he turned his hand to watches, creating the Espace collection. Naturally following Cardin’s penchant for geometrics and unique forms, this 26 strong lineup delivered totally unique watches using materials including metal and acrylic.
For the most part these watches do the talking, but flip any of these models over and you’ll see a familiar manufacturer signature ‘JAEGER FRANCE’. Despite this, you can find models from the Espace collection available for sale for less than £1,000 depending on the style, and chances are you won’t bump into another owner and the next watch get-together.
Audemars Piguet Philosophique
Image credit: Wristclassics
Now this is one I’ve been keeping quiet about for a while, but here feels like the right place to tell you about it (you won’t tell anyone else, right?). No, that’s not a typo, this tiny 31mm single handed watch with a case design that emulates that of a pocket watch, and zero branding on the dial was actually produced by Audemars Piguet.
First released in 1982, this watch was created as less of an accurate time teller and more about the romance behind the passage of time. The single hand is for the hour and the concept behind the piece is that time can be experienced more ‘philosophically’ (hence its name) rather than with the utmost precision.
Audemars Piguet didn’t have to go as expressive as they did here, every element of this piece from its pocket watch inspired case to its lack of branding is a total departure from what we’ve seen in the past and present. If you can handle the funk and the constant need to explain exactly what you’re wearing, grabbing a Philosophique will set you back around £5,000 with some hunting.
Ebel 1911
Image credit: Phillips
The story of the El Primero is a well-documented one at this stage. Charles Vermot secretly hid the machinery and plans for the movement in the factory attic. When mechanical watches regained interest in the 1980s, his foresight allowed Zenith to revive the El Primero, supplying brands and reigniting industry-wide appreciation for high-frequency mechanical chronographs.
One of the most well-known clients of Zenith was Rolex with its Daytona, but who was another major client of Zeniths at the time? That’s right, Ebel. In fact, Ebel weren’t just another brand, they were the first brand to place orders for the El Primero, and what followed was a couple of decades of major, widespread success.
From Miami Vice to James Bond and Boris Becker, Ebel during the 1980s and 1990s were everywhere, and their product was built to an incredibly high standard. Today? Those models such as the 1911 Chronograph, Voyager, and Sport Classic have slipped through the radar for many collectors and can be had for a fraction of the price they once were.
For those who appreciate their curvy case lines, expressive dials, and insane bracelets (the wave bracelet from Ebel still remains one of the most well impressive ones ever made, if you ask me) the reward is immense. Examples of the 1911 Chronograph with the El Primero inside and in solid 18k yellow gold can be yours today for between £4,000 and £5,000. If you want a steel example? Half that.
Gallet Multichron Regulator Chronograph
Image credit: Gallet
There are some watches out there that feel less vintage and more just ‘old’. I’m not talking about neo-vintage, I’m more referring to those watches that feel a little soulless and mundane, what I’m talking about is the exact opposite of the Multichron Regulator by Gallet.
First produced in the 1929, the entry within Gallet’s Multichron line sees the hours and minute tracked via a smaller dial at 12, while a central chronograph hand measures elapsed seconds and an elapsed minute register is at six. This curious configuration is something rarely seen in today’s world, which makes these Gallet’s some of the most charming vintage chronographs out there.
Shortly after its debut, the Gallet Regulator became the preferred timing instrument for pilots, physicians, engineers, and athletes as these professions required precise measurement of elapsed intervals rather than quick reference to the hour. The watch soon earned distinction as the first officially sanctioned wrist-worn chronograph of the Indianapolis 500 in the 1930s.
And if you can’t find a decent vintage version, you could always wait and see what Breitling’s going to do with the brand… chances are, the Multichron will be there in some form. Today these fascinating, overlooked slices of chronograph history can be found (with some effort) for less than £3,000.
Great article and I echo the views of Tim, modern watches alongside vintage timepieces also work well for me. Whilst I’m personally not into the more avant-garde designs of some pieces mentioned, and being more reserved in my style choices, my watches tend to fall into the classic dress watch category (both modern and vintage). In terms of the vintage category, I have a few pieces that are well loved and also worn, so not just residing in a box or winder cabinet. My favourites (within the vintage arena) are a gold Longines, a rose gold Le Coulture alongside a rose gold bulova tank dating back to 1937, – all working and keeping great time. My first “proper watch” that I bought for myself harks back to the Pierre Cardin era of the late 1970’s / early 1980’s, is a Watches of Switzerland special by Jean Renet, very minimal with only chapters at 12 & 6, but very stylish.
As with most of us, there are more pieces that are on my grail list, so never ending choices to look out for, and add, if the pieces are realistic.