As the year comes to a close, we like to take time and reflect on the biggest watch moments of the year. The new releases that had collectors buzzing, the stories that had us begging for updates and stand out events we’re looking forward to attending again in 2026. So, without further ado here are the biggest watch moments of 2025.
Hands On Horology
Ok yes, we’re probably a bit biased on this one. But the launch of a brand-new London watch show designed entire for dedicated watch collectors and enthusiasts is a big deal. Hands On Horology, brought to you by Oracle Time, saw hundreds of people descend on Protein Studios in Shoreditch to get up close and hands on with watches from over 40 watch and watch accessory brands. It was a fantastic day of learning, community and no small amount of shopping with multiple exclusive special editions on offer.
Hands On Horology will be back in 2026 at Protein Studios on the 13th of June. You can register your interest to attend now to avoid missing out on tickets.
US Tariff Drama
One of the major economic moments of the year came with the implementation of US universal tariffs and subsequent country specific reciprocal tariffs, which hit Switzerland especially hard with a huge 39% tariff in August. It had a major impact on the watch industry as with the weaker Asian market recently, many brands were hoping for the slack to be picked up by US sales. However, price rises were all but unavoidable despite many retailers being asked to take a slimmer margin.
Initial talks between the Trump administration and the Swiss government were unfruitful and so the major watch brands began a different tactic to appease the President. He was invited to the Rolex box at the US Open tennis finals, was gifted a Rolex desk clock and met personally with the watchmaking elite. A decidedly old-fashioned style of diplomacy. I don’t know what it says about the state of the world, but it was also a successful one.
In November the Swiss tariffs were reduced to 15%, in line with the average rate across the rest of Europe. The effects of this reduction are already starting to be felt with rumours circulating that brands who initially raised their prices are considering cutting them again – though likely not back to original levels as the reduced tariff is still higher than previous and the ever-present battle against inflation continues.
Tag Heuer and LVMH Take Over F1
While it was announced at the end of 2024, 2025 saw a changing of the guard as Rolex stepped back from their Formula One duties to be replaced by rivals LVMH and Tag Heuer. The 10-year deal sees Tag Heuer take over the role of official timing partner with Louis Vuitton taking part in the trophy presentation and Moet Hennessey handling the champagne.
On a horological level the biggest change was the addition of Tag Heuer pit lane clocks in the style of their revamped Formula 1 collection (with a new version of the watch for each GP). There was also the usual array of special editions around Monaco, for which TAG Heuer became the first title sponsor, as well as Las Vegas. Though it was McLaren and Lando Norris who came out on top of the championship with their partner Richard Mille rather than Verstappen and Red Bull.
Independent Brands on Top
There have been a few moments this year that have showcased the impact of high end, independent watchmakers on the collecting zeitgeist. Anecdotally, when OT was on the ground at Dubai Watch Week, it was the booths of brands like F. P. Journe, David Candaux and Konstantin Chaykin that were the busiest. Collectors were almost feverish in their desire to try on watches and get onto the all-important waiting lists.
If you want more substantive evidence, then look at the Phillips New York Watch Auction XIII from the start of December. Not only did it set the record for highest total sale price achieved for a watch auction in the US, it also set the record for the highest price achieved by a watch from an independent watchmaker, with the F. P. Journe FCC reaching over $10 million. On top of that, the top ten lots were eight watches by FPJ and two by Philippe Dufour.
The Ultimate Anniversary Year
In a strange moment of universal convergence 2025 has been a significant anniversary year for multiple high-profile brands across the span of heritage, modern, independent and microbrand names. Vacheron Constantin turned 270, Breguet turned 250, Zenith 160, Audemars Piguet 150, Orient 75, Maurice Lacroix 50, Roger Dubuis 30, Gerald Charles 25, MB&F 20, Laurent Ferrier 15, Czapek 10 (since their modern relaunch), Horage 10, Brew 10. Not to mention a number of peripheral, watch associated anniversaries such as Ahmed Sediqqi & Sons at 75 and the Bauhaus at 100, or specific watch models like the Rolex Datejust at 80 or Oris Diver’s Sixty-Five at 60 (I’m looking forward to the Sixty-Five 65).
Naturally, anniversary years mean anniversary watches so here’s a quick round up of some of the stand outs:
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication La Première – It’s quite a statement on the occasion of your 270th anniversary to produce the most complicated wristwatch in history. They might be a veteran of the industry but they’re still at the cutting edge. The Grand Complication rocks a whopping 41 complications and 1,521 components.
Zenith G.F.J – The G.F.J is based on the initials of Georges Favre-Jacot, the original founder of Zenith. Another nod to its heritage is the fact it houses a modern re-interpretation of Zenith’s (second) most famous movement, the calibre 135. A hyper luxury watch with elements of Metiers d’Art.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar – AP have been celebrating their 150th anniversary this year and one of the major releases was the new Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 41mm. The key update here is that the entire calendar complication can be set with a single crown, a fact that led AP to develop an intelligent watch box that can set it for you.
