Hands On Horology 2025 - Early Bird Tickets Live

New Releases Watches

Grand Seiko Introduce Snowdrop and Moondrop Automatic GMT Watches

Grand Seiko ‘Snowdrop’ Automatic GMT SBGM255

Grand Seiko aren’t necessarily a brand we associate with Grand Complication watches and uber haute horology. That’s not to say they aren’t capable of it, case in point the Kodo, but their day-to-day focus is more in the region of artistic design and classic complications like your humble date, power reserve indicator or GMT display. The latter is the subject of today’s new release, the Grand Seiko Snowdrop and Moondrop Automatic GMT.

Both are new interpretations of the SBGM line, joining previous versions like the now sold-out Mid-Heaven from 2023. There are few changes to the overall design for the 2025 releases, most notably that the cases are slightly thicker, going from 13.7mm to 14.1mm. Presumably that’s because the dials are now fully engraved rather than sunray brushed, meaning the dial plates have to be that much thicker to accommodate the three-dimensionality.

Grand Seiko ‘Snowdrop’ Automatic GMT SBGM255
Grand Seiko ‘Moondrop’ Automatic GMT SBGM257

Speaking of the dials, they have a very traditional style of geometric pattern with alternating spiral lines that creates a crosshatched design. It draws the eye naturally inwards from the periphery of the display to the inner 24-hour GMT scale and then onward to the central handstack with dauphine hands. The Snowdrop edition is a pale cream colour with blue accents, designed to represent the melting of snow in the spring as ice becomes water. Meanwhile Moondrop with its blue and gold colours depicts a nightscape where light reflects off of the dew.

Grand Seiko ‘Moondrop’ Automatic GMT SBGM257

Below the dials sits the 9S66 automatic GMT movement with 72-hour power reserve and +5/-3 seconds per day accuracy. Those are some really good specs, and they show Grand Seiko’s care and attention towards their comparatively simple watches as well as those more complex beasts. You can view the movement through the sapphire glass exhibition caseback.

Both the Snowdrop and Moondrop Automatic GMT are priced at £4,550, which feels about right for a classy dial and a high spec movement. It’s perhaps on the more basic end of the spectrum when it comes to Grand Seiko’s dials but no less pretty for it, plus not everyone wants a dial as intricate as the Birch.

Price and Specs:

Model: Grand Seiko ‘Snowdrop’ and ‘Moondrop’ Automatic GMT
Ref: SBGM255 (Snowdrop), SBGM257 (Moondrop)
Case: 39.5mm diameter x 14.1mm thickness, stainless steel with box sapphire glass and anti-reflective coating on inner surface
Dial: White with geometric pattern evoking melting snow (Snowdrop), blue with geometric pattern evoking moonlit dew (Moondrop)
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Grand Seiko calibre 9S66, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT
Strap: Crocodile leather strap with three-fold clasp and push button release
Price: £4,550

More details at Grand Seiko.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.