The Master Control collection by Jaeger-LeCoultre is in many regards the blueprint from which many of their other collections are built. Make it thinner and dressier and you have the Master Ultra Thin, add a high complication and you have the Master Grande. It is the mid-way option between those more extreme designs and in the words of sage and philosopher, Goldilocks, it’s just right. Now though, one of the core models in the collection has received a makeover, introducing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar with sector dial.
Prior to this launch the current Master Control Calendar range exclusively featured smooth, monocolour dials in silver-white. Very restrained, very elegant – leaning into the fusion of modernity and tradition that defines the Master range. The new dial deviates from that significantly by introducing a grainy texture that gives the piece a frosted appearance. At the same time, it now has a sector style layout with light grey and dark grey sections. These two relatively small changes totally switch up the vibe of the watch.
It now feels much more Art Deco, which is a style JLC is well known for with the Reverso. Dating back to the 1920s and the popularity of geometric designs and ostentatious luxury in the interwar period. Getting into the details of the dial, it has a peripheral pointer date function, inside which is the minute track, then the hour scale with 12/3/9 numeral markers and wedge shaped indexes and finally a central disc with day and month aperture above a moonphase subdial at 6 o’clock. The alternating light and dark tones give the piece a lot more visual structure than the standard Master Control Calendar.
Beyond the redesigned dial, it’s the same watch as the existing collection, 40mm in diameter in stainless steel housing the Manufacture Calibre 866, an automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve. Its calendar display is what’s known as a complete calendar, which means that it shows day/date/month but doesn’t account for the different number of days in each month. Meaning you have to adjust it at the end of every month without 31 days. Whereas an annual calendar can account for months with 30 days and a perpetual calendar can account for the madness of February including on leap years.
It’s priced at £13,900 in a limited edition of 500 pieces. While this isn’t necessarily a headline grabbing launch, given JLC’s haute horological focus so far in 2025, with models like the Hybris Artistica, a new dial on a (relatively) simple watch makes for a nice change of pace.
Price and Specs:
More details at Jaeger-LeCoultre.
I do personally like JLC watches (along with a couple of other favourite brands), so I tend to keep loyal, rather than move around the watch circuit. I do have a two vintage JLC’s that I love and do wear fairly regularly. JLC is one of the classier brands that don’t tend to cater to the tastes of the glitter and bling fans but keep things simple, but classic style never dates, hence the Reverso still being made and still popular amongst those that appreciate true (but understated) style. A Reverso is definitely on my personal grail list. This latest release is for me, a little too much in terms of visuals and complexity (day/date/month and moon-phase) along with the monotone dial colouring and sector dial, is a bit like a committee design input.
Price is I guess, on a par with pre-owned Reverso’s but higher than other (new), JLC’s, so my money would be buying vintage (no surprise then).
JLC make superb watches, but their retail prices are high. I don’t understand why anyone would pay full retail when you can pick up most models in ‘as new’ condition for hefty discounts after a year or two. But I suppose that observation could be applied to most makes these days….