Ulysse Nardin Reveal Freak [X Crystalium] with Innovative Crystal Dial 

The Freak is one of the modern icons of watchmaking, turning the humble time-only display into a work of haute horology. Its signature carrousel construction means the entire movement rotates in its housing, serving as the time indicator itself rather than relying on traditional hands. Now it’s presented in one of its most dramatic interpretations with a black DLC case and golden crystal display. This new interpretation is called the Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Crystalium].

Jumping straight to the crystal display, it’s made from a material Ulysse Nardin are calling Crystalium, hence the watch’s name. It’s produced from ruthenium, which is an element in the platinum family that’s 10x rarer than platinum. Over a period of days it undergoes a chemical vapour deposition process to form layers that are slowly built up to create crystals – this is similar to one of the methods that’s also used to create lab grown diamonds.

After the layer of crystals has been created, it’s finished with a final layer of gold PVD to give it a rich colour. But that’s not the end because it’s then shaded by hand with a black varnish in the recessed areas to create contrast and make each of the tiny crystal peaks stand out. The result is a display that looks like a shining mass of gold, like a dragon’s hoard. An apt description because it reminds me of the Dragon Scale motif used by Simon Brette.

Above the golden base sits the architecture of the carrousel calibre UN-230, which has been openworked as much as possible to reveal the Crystalium below. It rotates around its own axis, serving as the minute indicator, completing a rotation every 60 minutes. On the reverse end of the indicator you can see the silicon escapement at work as it too rotates around the display. Below that is a wide hour hand so you can actually tell the time. The 72-hour power reserve is also great.

That movement and Crystalium display are housed in a 43mm diameter titanium case with DLC coating. The dark tone matching that of the openworked display, creating a brooding sense of cohesion. Now that I have it in my head, I can’t escape the dragon analogy and the wide open spaces of the dial and dark case do remind me of the bridges and open halls of Erebor in Peter Jackson’s The Hobbit franchise. Which is surprising given how modern the Freak feels. You’ll also need a small dragon’s hoard to afford one at £37,130.

More details at Ulysse Nardin.