When you think of watchmaking excellence your mind instantly goes to Switzerland. Yet, the Swiss don’t have a monopoly on watchmaking and many of the most highly regarded watchmakers of today aren’t from the land of chocolate and hole-y cheese. Kari Voutilainen is one such example. Originally from Finland, his website leads with the phrase ‘horologie d’Art’ which perhaps encapsulates what Voutilainen is all about. There is undeniably an art to his timepieces. But how did this Finnish master become watch royalty?
Kari’s watchmaking journey started at the Tapiola watchmaking school in Finland. As with most watchmakers looking to make a name for themselves, his education then led him to Switzerland in 1989. He undertook the Watches of Switzerland Training and Education Program (WOSTEP) where he specialised in the restoration of highly complicated watches. Education complete he was quickly scouted by Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps.
Voutilainen 28ti
At this time, Parmigiani wasn’t yet the Parmigiani Fleurier brand we know today. It was a well renowned workshop that repaired and restored highly complicated timepieces. As a small side note Voutilainen was originally recruited by Vacheron Constantin but visa issues stopped him ever joining. Imagine if Voutilainen watches had been crafted under the Vacheron name. I guess we’ll never know what would have happened there.
During his 10 years with Parmigiani, Kari worked with highly complex watches fine tuning his craft, and in his spare time he began creating his own masterpieces. His first completed watch was a twin barrel tourbillon pocket watch with power reserve. Why walk when you can run?
Zenith x Kari Voutilainen Calibre 135 Observatoire
Kari was starting to make a name for himself and a few collectors started to commission him to create unique pieces. This led him to leave Parmigiani. But rather than jump head-first into his own brand, he returned to WOSTEP in order to teach new aspiring watchmakers.
Finally, in 2002 Kari took the plunge and started to operate a workshop under his own name. He became a fully independent artist watchmaker. What is unique about Voutilainen is he quickly realised the power of collaboration. He knew early on that utilizing the expertise of others whether it was specialist case makers or dial manufacturers would result in better watches and a more effective business.
This collaboration is still true today. You’ll occasionally see the Voutilainen name alongside other watch brands. For example the Armin Strom Tribute 1 Fume Ocean has a dial crafted by Voutilainen. Or the Zenith 135 Observatoire which uses old 135 movements restored and decorated by Voutilainen.
Kari Voutilainen Louis Vuitton LVKV-02 GMR 6
More recently Louis Vuitton came knocking on the Voutilainen workshop door. The LVKV-02 GMR6 sees Kari utilise his movement prowess (with a unique GMT complication) and dial artistry (with a hand guilloché dial) which is completed with some colourful artwork courtesy of Louis Vuitton. The watch is the second installment to a 5-part series, where LV partners with some of the titans of independent watchmaking. These types of partnerships have been essential to the Vouitilainen strategy over the years. It’s what makes Kari not just a great watchmaker but also a shrewd businessman.
The brand’s signature pieces are the watches he makes directly for his own customers. A few years ago, the brand integrated its trusted dial and case makers under the Voutilainen name. It means the 100 or so timepieces Kari produces each year are made almost entirely in-house. These pieces won’t be found in any shop window, the brand makes them on a commission only basis and each piece often has its own unique features.
Voutilainen 28SPORT (2021), image crredit: Sothebys
The Vingt-8 or 28 collection is probably the hero model for the brand with different dial colours and finishes chosen at the request of the client. The 28 collection is vintage Voutilainen. Underpinned by the calibre 28, the movement is incredibly special, using a unique double wheel escapement system created entirely by Voutilainen. The system requires less energy and improves the longevity of the movement versus traditional lever escapements.
If seeing the meteoric rise of his own brand wasn’t enough, earlier this year Kari Voutilainen was appointed co-CEO of Urban Jürgensen. Kari was brought in to help relaunch the brand and oversee the technical watchmaking side of the business. As the head of two world class watch brands, including one which bears your own name, it confirms his place among watchmaker royalty.
